旅のエッセイ / Travel Essay - MAGIC HOUR

Memories of Geibikei

February 11 of this year, Japan’s National Day, was a Tuesday. If I took Monday off, it would be a four-day weekend. I wished to go see the snowy scenery.

Since I visited Taiwan for the New Year’s holiday, I did not have much financial resources to go on a trip for four full days moving around. I found that winter bus tours of Oirase Gorge were available during the daytime on weekends and holidays. In addition, there were also tours for nighttime illumination. With two daytime tours and two nighttime tours, it seemed an efficient plan was made for a three-day trip.

After making all arrangements, it turned out that I was indeed a salaried employee. I had to be at my office on Monday, between Sunday and the national holiday. I had no choice but canceled my plans. I decided to plan another trip at the end of February instead. At the same time, I had some errands to be complete during February, so I decided to take care of them on February 9 and 11, when my schedule happened to be free.

On February 9, I worked like a horse and finished all the errands by midnight. As a result, February 11 became totally free. I could have stayed home and spent time lazily, but I wanted to go see the snowy landscape.

As I was looking at the weather forecast for Tohoku area on February 11, it was predicted to be sunny in the afternoon in the southern part. A few years ago, I went to Zao in Yamagata Prefecture to see the juhyo (ice monsters) and was able to see an extremely beautiful sunset view. I found out that sunset in Zao was around 5:00 p.m., so I could catch the last Shinkansen even if it was a day trip.

After making most of the plans, I checked the timetable of Zao ropeway just to be sure, but found lighting up of the juhyo was not operated daily. Without the lighting up, the ropeway service would be ended before sunset. Unfortunately lighting up would not be done on February 11, even though it was a national holiday. I almost went there for nothing but managed to avoid it.

There was no more time to bother, but when I looked at the weather forecast again, Yamagata, Miyagi, and Iwate Prefectures were forecast to be sunny in the afternoon. Since it would be sunny, I wished to go somewhere.

While returning from work on Monday, I looked Google Map and recalled that I was interested in Geibikei Gorge in Ichinoseki. It is famous for its autumn leaves, but the snowy scenery seems beautiful too. If I took Shinkansen leaving Tokyo before noon, I could arrive there when the weather would be clear. From Ichinoseki, I would need to take JR Ofunato Line, which was a local line and difficult to fit my schedule. However, there was a bus service that runs along the Ofunato Line, which made only three round trips a day. By combining use of train and bus, I was able to make an itinerary that works out nicely.

Further research made and found that Ichinoseki was famous for its rice cake. I also found a nice izakaya (Japanese-style pub) near Ichinoseki Station. I decided to leave Tokyo earlier, eat rice cakes in Ichinoseki and go to Geibikei, finally take late Shinkansen on the way back. This would give me 2.5 hours at the izakaya. Some years ago, I found an excellent izakaya in front of Shin-Yamaguchi Station, but my schedule was very tight, and I had to return to Tokyo feeling reluctant to leave. With that experience in mind, I wished to secure enough time. It was after 10:00 p.m. when all the arrangements were made. The forecast remained favorable.

On my way to Ichinoseki, the weather was fine with a clear view of Mt. Fuji even in Saitama Prefecture, but it turned cloudy around Koriyama in Fukushima Prefecture. Still, the bad weather in the morning was within my expectation. When I got off the Shinkansen at Ichinoseki, blue skies were peeking through the clouds. I walked to the rice cake restaurant.

After eating delicious rice cakes, I left the restaurant in an unexpected snowstorm. The weather forecast was updated that expected time for sunny weather would be 2 p.m. Still, according to the radar forecast, the snow would stop within 15 minutes or so. I returned to Ichinoseki Station and waited for the Ofunato Line train.

20 minutes after I left the restaurant, when the train was scheduled to depart from Ichinoseki Station, it was still snowing. Looking at the radar forecast again, it would be another 30 minutes before the snow stopped. In the end, I arrived at Geibikei without stopping snow.

The tour in Geibikei is 30-minute boat ride one way, 20-minute walk at the end, and then back on the boat again. I boarded the boat, which departed at 2:00 p.m. It was windy and snowy. In other words, it was a snowstorm. It was completely unexpected. It had been nearly two hours since I had left the restaurant in Ichinoseki just after the noon, and it still had not stopped snowing despite I had been told it was supposed to clear up in the afternoon.

It was a blizzard on that day, but Geibikei was not in a heavy snowfall area. So, it was a plus for me to see the snowy scenery of Geibikei. Well, maybe so. The fresh snow felt nice and fluffy as I walked around.

I was not interested in the guided walk, so I stayed away from the group and took photos. When it was time to board the return trip boat, the Gorge was cleared up. The light reflected to the falling snow and shimmered against the dark rocky Gorge. I did not have the skills to photograph this, but it was absolutely beautiful.

Since Geibikei Gorge had magnificent rock formations on both sides, return passengers were instructed to board on the same side of the boat as outward trip. I had a 50% chance from this perspective, but the side looking the largest rocky area was on my return trip. I was able to pass the rocky point when now-unexpected blue sky appeared for a brief moment. I disembarked the boat extremely satisfied.

I killed time in a souvenir shop and took the bus ride back to Ichinoseki. It was snowing again.

The food at the izakaya was extremely good, especially fish from Sanriku Coast. It was cold, so I drank hot sake first and then cold sake from the local brewery maybe for 4 or 5 cups. I ordered ochazuke (tea-soaked rice) for the end of the meal, but I really wanted to try miso soup of the shop. Perhaps thinking I was too drunk, I was double-checked if I was really okay with two kinds of soup, but I went ahead anyway. The ochazuke and miso soup were both delicious, but my Shinkansen time was approaching. I left the restaurant in a hurry, unexpected that two and a half hours would not be enough. I rushed into Shinkansen just in time.

I had to change Shinkansen trains at Sendai Station, so I was trying to stay awake until that point. However, once boarded on the second Shinkansen, I could get back from Sendai to Omiya in 30 seconds, and in 10 seconds from Omiya to Tokyo. When I got home and closed my eyes while taking a bath, I saw a blizzard in the jet black. It was a day of unexpectedness, but I was able to fully enjoy the winter in Tohoku even on a whim.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Geibikei Gorge

Times listed are based on timetable at the time of visit.

Tokyo 0908 > (Komachi 11) Sendai 1039 – 1050 (Yamabiko 53) > Ichinoseki 1123

Lunch: Fujisei

Ichinoseki 1246 (JR Ofunato Line) > Geibikei 1318

・Geibikei

Geibikei 1550 (Bus) > Ichinoseki 1632

Dinner: Kinokawa

Ichinoseki 2022 (Yamabiko 68) >> Sendai 2053 – 2131 (Komachi 48) > Tokyo 2304

Memories of Zao (Originally posted on 2022-Mar-24)

One of the readers of this blog was a resident of Zao and recommended to visit there. Zao is known as a town of hot springs and skiing, but it is most famous for its ice monster. If I go to Zao, I should see the ice monster.

The best time to see the ice monster is in February, in the middle of winter. As a second option, I asked whether I should go in January or March. I was told that January would be better.

I decided going to Zao on compensatory leave for the New Year holidays. The plan was that I would stay at an onsen inn in Zao for the first night and then go to Hijiori Onsen on the second day.

Famous photographs of Zao are ice monster trees that covered with snow against the clear blue sky. The weather in the mountains is changeable, I was not sure if things really work that well.

I took the Shinkansen which allowed flexible itineraries. I had reserved the first train in the morning on the first day and the last train on the third day to maximize my stay at Zao area in Yamagata Prefecture. Shinkansen reservations were able to be changed according to the weather. Since I had no other plans, I was able to have three chances to see the ice monster, even taking travel times into account.

If I have three days, I should be able to make it at least once. Maybe.

However, weekly forecast was not looking good. I had planned to be extremely flexible during the three days, but the dates could not be changed. As of the day before the departure, it was forecasted that only a few hours of sunshine in the evening of the first day. The rests were forecasted completely cloudy. If the weather was not good throughout the trip, there was no point having flexible train itineraries.

Would it really work?

On the first day, I did not get up early to catch the first train but boarded Yamagata Shinkansen left Tokyo before noon. My Shinkansen was delayed because of the time required for snow removal. It was not a good start.

After leaving Kanto region with clear sky, Fukushima Prefecture was overcast. It got worse as the Shinkansen entered Yamagata Prefecture with snow flurried in some places.

Nevertheless, by the time train reached to Yamagata Station, the sun was visible behind the wind-driven clouds.

It was a bright sign, I thought.

From Yamagata Station, I took a bus to Zao. As the bus entered the mountainous area and climbed up, visibility became poor again. I knew it was not going to be a good day. I decided to hang around in the onsen resort area and take a nap at the inn.

However, when I looked up at the sky around 4:00 p.m., to my surprise, the sky had suddenly begun to clear up. After all, mountain weather was changeable.

I rushed to the ropeway station. I ran through the snow-covered road and boarded the ropeway just in time. I made the quickest transfer to gondola on the way to the top and managed to reach the summit before sunset.

The white snow monster, the blue sky, and the bright red sunset. It was a spectacular view that seemed unreal. The time around sunset and sunset were often called magic hours, but it was beyond the magic. It was mystical. It was just wonderful, but it was also very cold. The extreme cold also felt like mystical, but it was real.

I finished photo shooting when it became completely dark and ran back to the inn before the dinner time.

It was a perfect two-hour that I celebrated at the inn. I ordered local sake called Sumiyoshi. It was dry with a hint of oak and delicious. I recalled that I ordered some more local sake, but I did not remember what they were because I got drunk.

The purpose of the trip was accomplished on the first day, and all remained on this trip was to enjoy onsen.

On the last day, the weather in Yamagata City was not so bad. However, I could not imagine getting off the Shinkansen, riding a bus to Zao, taking out my warm clothes from my backpack, and getting on the ropeway again.

The weather in the mountains is changeable. There was no guarantee that it would be sunny when I got to Zao, and there was no guarantee that the fine weather at noon would last until the evening. Therefore, I thought it was unlikely that I would encounter a more spectacular view than on the first day. The memory of a spectacular view woven by nature should remain as spectacular.

Well, that was just an excuse for myself.

I was already fully satisfied. I felt too cold in the evening of the first day and too tired from many hours spend in onsen. Besides, I needed to change Shinkansen ticket again. In the end, I did not have the energy going up the mountain in the extreme cold anymore.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Zao

The schedule and service are based on the timetable at the time of visit.

Day 1

Tokyo 1000 (Tsubasa 135) >> Yamagata 1344
Yamagata Station 1420 (bus) >> Zao Onsen Bus Terminal 1457

– Ropeway for Ice Monster

Overnight stay: Takamiya Miyamaso

Tips for Day 1
– I stayed at the inn in the old hot spring resort area, farthest away from the ropeway station. It was a 15-minute walk, but there were ups and downs on icy walkway that were hard for me.
– The uphill ropeway got crowded with groups at around 6:00 p.m. as they came to see ice monster lighting up. When the lights were lit up after the sunset, it can be enjoyable regardless of the weather.

Day 2

Zao Onsen Bus Terminal 1020 (bus) >> Yamagata Station 1105
Yamagata 1246 (Tsubasa 133) >> Shinjo 1331

Overnight stay: Hijiori Onsen Maruya

Tips for the 2nd day
– The inn offered a free transportation from/to Shinjyo Station, but there was also public bus from Shinjo Station to Hijiori Onsen.

Day 3

Shinjo 1117 (Tsubasa 140) >> Omiya 1423
Omiya >> Yokohama

Memories of Fangliao

After returning from a trip to Taiwan last year, I made some research for my next possible visit there. I found that there was a train line in southern Taiwan with a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean and a sightseeing train was operated using restored old coach cars. English name of the train is “Breezy Blue” but Chinese name “藍皮解憂號 (Relieve Anxious Blue Train)” sounds more comforting. I slightly recalled that I had read an article about this train when it was in a regular service, but I had forgotten about it because of the inaccessibility of Fangliao, the starting station of the train.

I think one of difficulties of traveling to Taiwan is its proximity to Japan although it may sound paradoxically. By taking advantages of red-eye flights, I believe that three-night is enough to go to Southeast Asia, and it is possible going to North America or Europe for four-night travel. As such, Taiwan tends to be out of consideration when I can take a reasonably long vacation. However, this New Year holiday would be the right time because I can take a longer stay in Taiwan due to the airfare.

Assuming that the tourist train would be crowded on weekends, I initially made a reservation on a weekday. If I take a train on a scenic route overlooking the Pacific Ocean, I must do it on a day with good weather. When I checked the forecast before leaving Japan, all forecasts predicted rain in southern Taiwan on the day of the train reserved.

It is difficult to relieve anxious if it is rained. I kept looking the forecast until the day before departure, but it remained the same. On the other hand, all the forecasting companies were predicting clear skies on the day before I would return to Japan. I decided to bet the whole trip on that day. Intentionally ignoring all the troubles not just to myself but all others, I decided to settle things with money – changed hotel reservations and made another train reservation at the very last minute.

Finally, the day came to board the Breezy Blue train. As forecasted, the weather was fine in Fangliao.

When I went to the reception a little early, I was surprised to see a large crowd of people. Apparently, the train was a part of local bus tours. After checking-in for the train and purchasing souvenirs, I waited for the train at Fangliao station. Then a line was formed at the ticket gate. I did not know how crowded the train would be, but I was theoretically sure that only a half of the seats was on the seaside. I decided to get in the line too.

This train runs on the South-link Line of Taiwan Railway, from Fangliao in southwestern Taiwan to Taitung on the east coast and back. Although it is called the South-link Line, it does not link to the southern tip of the Taiwan Island but shortcutting mountain area using tunnels.

Nobel Prize-winning novelist Yasunari Kawabata wrote “the train came out of the long tunnel into the snow country” at the beginning of his “Snow Country”. Unfortunately, I was not a Nobel Prize-winning author besides Taiwan was not a snow country.

The train came out of the long tunnel into the cloudy country. There was a mountain range that run through Taiwan, and the weather seemed to be changed by the mountains. I regretted that I did not take a photo of the ocean on the west coast, where was clear. I arrived in Taitung without to relieve anxious.

The Breezy Blue train runs one round-trip per day. Since the return trip is scheduled around sunset time on west coast, return schedule is rather tight. In Taitung (台東), I only had a time to see the station. It was a bit disappointing since I had lived in Taito (台東) Ward in Tokyo for more than 20 years. I wished to see Taitung a little longer.

It was the time to board the return train. Weather was not so good on the return trip either.

The train made a stop at an intermediate station, where passengers walked around for about an hour to visit an aboriginal village. During this one hour, the weather improved dramatically. It was a miracle.

Upon all passengers re-embarked, the train proceeded to a scenic section of the line where the train slowed down, with a clear sky and a view of the Pacific Ocean up close.

There were fewer passengers on the return trip, and one car in middle of the train was unmanned. The entire train was chartered by a tour company, and the empty car was not locked during the return trip. I was able to enter the car and photograph the blue Pacific Ocean spreading out the windows of the old coach. It was truly a train to relieve anxious.

In the evening, the sun goes down into the mountain range on the east coast, but once passing through the tunnels, the train will be on the west coast. In other words, after watching the sun moving behind the mountains, I was able to enjoy the sun sets into the ocean. They were beautiful sights. The train then returned to Fangliao in a twilight.

I had made last-minute changes, and I felt nervous even on the day of the trip. Finally, I was confident to believe all’s well that ends well. I was fully able to relieve anxious during the New Year holidays. Last year was pretty rough for me, but I felt like there was a hope for 2025.