Memories of Croatia

Last year, I went to Europe for the first time after COVID-19 outbreak and quite enjoyed. In the past few years, I had to repeat short trips. However, since the trip was a relatively long duration and visited locations without much of direct flights, I had to be creative in making travel arrangements. I liked working on travel plans, so the whole process was a fun indeed.

Perhaps they have fundamentally opposite nature, what I enjoyed during the trip were the religious sites and the liquor. In Bulgaria, I stayed in a Bulgarian Orthodox Monastery. Greek Orthodox churches were worth seeing for different architectural styles from the Bulgarian. In addition, both countries have cultures of distilled spirits, and I enjoyed them. In Germany, where the last country I visited, I was able to visit an old-fashioned beer hall, even though I was in Germany for less than a day.

As a whisky lover, Scotland comes first in my mind when I think of European distilled spirits, but it has already been about 15 years since my last visit there. The industry was in recession when I had interests on whisky for the first time, but in recent years it has become very popular and the price has skyrocketed. Furthermore, Isle of Islay, a famous Scotch whisky producing island, used to be a remote island where seemed almost the farthest land on the earth. Now, the island has become a famous tourist destination, and I cannot find it as interesting as used to be.

Geographically, next to Scotland is Ireland, where is also a famous whiskey-producing country. I am not familiar with Ireland, but I know Irish whisky prices are not as high as those of Scotch. Looking at map of Ireland, I see that it has scenic coastlines and many ruins of old Celtic churches. Moreover, perhaps I have strong images of the chaotic times due to the influence of the novels I love to read, but I think that the country is full of cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic middle-aged men.

Cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic.

This would be the perfect place for me. Checking on flights, I found that if I take a red-eye flight on Japan Airlines to London Heathrow, I can get to Dublin in the next morning. On the way back, I can fly or take ferry & train to London, stay overnight, and take another red-eye flight back to Tokyo. The schedule seemed pretty good, I made a reservation for the airline ticket.

Normally, I would have completed all the arrangements as soon as possible, but things were different this time. My insomnia had been worsening in the first half of this year. Despite I had too much free time in late nights, I had not done anything for several months after I got the airline ticket. In fact, I checked few points such as distillery tours or ways to travel from Ireland to London during such late-night times. However, they did not go any further. I had wasted time without making any reservations or even making any plans at all. One of reasons might be a rental car to get around Ireland, as I did not like driving. Yet, it was almost the first time for me to do nothing on travel plans for such a long time.

Around that time, I had to take a training session at work, it said insomnia was not good for mental health. I have been lethargic at work from time to time, but I should have taken as a bad sign that I was lethargic on travel. It may be necessary to take some countermeasures against insomnia that has worsened. As a new approach to my insomnia, I decided to change the destination of my summer vacation.

I needed to go to a place where I could feel positive. Let me go to somewhere refreshing and full of dazzling sun, opposed to cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic.

If I am looking for dazzling sun in Europe, I should look for it in southern part of the continent. Since I visited the Aegean Sea last year, the Mediterranean Sea or the Adriatic Sea would be a good idea. Few years ago, I visited Dubrovnik, Croatia and took a day tour to city of Kotor in Montenegro. I remembered that I liked Kotor but did not have much time there. I should be able to expect dazzling sun of Adriatic Sea.

I checked the airline tickets again and found that All Nippon Airways offered red-eye flights for both out/in Japan. For the most efficient way to get around, I decided to go to Dubrovnik first, and then take a bus to Kotor. On the last day, I fly from Podgorica Airport in the capital of Montenegro to Vienna, and catch returning flight to Tokyo Haneda.

On the first day of summer vacation, I arrived Dubrovnik via Frankfurt. A clear sky over the Adriatic Sea was supposed to be waiting for me, but the sky was full of clouds. When I arrived Dubrovnik, it was the first time I had seriously looked at the weather forecast. It said that cloudy or rainy weather was expected throughout my stay.

I left my luggage at the short-term apartment and immediately went to Walls of Dubrovnik while there were still few blue skies. The Walls is the most famous tourist attraction in the Croatia’s the most famous tourist destination. The entrance fee was quite high, 35 euros, or equivalent more than 5,500 yen owing weak Japanese yen.

After paying the admission fee, I heard a thunderous roar from somewhere. Looking at the land side, there was still blue sky, but looking out to sea from the top of Walls of Dubrovnik, it was cloudy, and what looked like a rain pillar could be seen in the distance.

Then, a thunderstorm came. It was a heavy rain shower with strong winds. There was no place to avoid them on Walls of Dubrovnik. I just had left my suitcase at the apartment and came to the Walls without doing anything, fortunately I still had my umbrella in my backpack. I found a place with a slight shelter from the wind. I ended up standing under torrential downpour for about an hour, my umbrella was broken and I was soaking wet on the first day of arrival.

Finally, the rain stopped and I resumed sightseeing of the Walls of Dubrovnik. The first round was not much for photography, so I decided to go on second round. Apparently one admission fee only allows one round. Considering the weather forecast was not promising for the next few days, I thought I should have done two rounds on this day even though I had to pay the entrance fee again. It was highly likely that first 35 euros/5,500 yen was complete waste of money.

The initial choices were Ireland where was cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic, or, Adriatic Sea where had refreshing and full of dazzling sun. In order for me to turn over a new leaf, it seemed like an easy choice. However, this visit to Adriatic Sea might not much different from going to Ireland. In fact, it might have been worse because the expensive entrance fee was wasted.

Memories of Yakushima (Originally posted on 2023-Jul-25)

I have always had hard time in early spring due to temperature changes and hay fever.

In the end, I could not hold out until Japan’s Golden Week holidays in May, and I decided to make a short trip in April. My schedule was already packed on Saturday, I took Monday off from work and spend two days starting on Sunday.

Although I had thought of going on a trip, I had no idea where to go. It was too late for snowy landscapes at most of places but a little too early for spring sceneries especially in mountain areas. After searching for a while, I realized that it was just the opening of Tateyama Alpine Route where is the famous for snow wall in the spring. I wanted to see it.

However, the weather forecast looked bad. All forecast agencies said that the weather would change in few-day cycles, and everyone said the planned weekend would be in a bad cycle. Looking at the weather map, a low-pressure system was developed and supposed to move over the Sea of Japan, highly likely to cause bad weather at the Tateyama Alpine Route in Toyama Prefecture. Should we go or not?

I looked at nationwide forecast and found that all the forecasting agencies were predicting clear skies west side of Kyushu. They said it would be even better as going towards south. In southwest Kyushu, there is an island named Yakushima, where I have been interested in for a long time. I found that there were seats available on frequent flyer award ticket for the onward trip from Tokyo to Yakushima via Kagoshima, and from Kagoshima to Tokyo on the way back. This may be the god of Yakushima telling me to come.

I immediately secured free air tickets, but I was not sure what to do on the island. I only knew somewhere called “Jomon Cedars” and “Moss Forest” on the island, started to check these places. Jomon Cedars seemed to be a full day trekking trip, I had to give up. Trekking to the Moss Forest is said to take about five hours, including transportation to/from the forest. The local buses were too infrequent and I did not like driving, so I decided to sign up for a guided tour. This way, I could kill two birds with one stone. I would be picked up and dropped off at my hotel, no need to worry local transportation besides I would have trekking buddy.

The next step was to find a hotel, which was difficult because of the limited pick-up and drop-off locations of the guided tour, especially I had no familiarity on the island. While searching, I happened to find a sushi restaurant that looked good. I looked for the restaurant on the map, I found a nice hotel just in front of it, where was fit to location requirement too. It was a bit awkward process but supposed to work out.

It was the day before the departure when all arrangements were completed.

I woke up early in the morning and arrived at Yakushima before noon. The weather was clear, but the mountains looking up from the village were hazy due to yellow dust from Gobi Desert. I was able to avoid the low-pressure system, but I had not thought about the yellow dust at all. Since I would be visiting in the forest, there should be no distant view for photograph.

I left the luggage at the hotel, and I was picked up by the guide to go to Shiratani Unsui Gorge where the moss forest is located. Apparently, this forest is not in a World Heritage area because it had been deforestation during the Edo period. Instead, the historical relationship between the forest and people and regeneration of the forest can be observed. The forest was beautiful and rich in water on Yakushima, where was said to rain 35 days a month.

After the trekking, I went to a sushi restaurant in the evening where they serve local fish. I ate sushi with fishes I had never heard of, and got drunk on Yakushima Shochu (distilled spirit) with local foods.

I have a bad habit going to the same place many times for photo shooting. In the next morning, I had hungover but got up early again, headed to Shiratani Unsui Gorge on another tour.

I was glad that I went there twice. The first day was in daytime, so the sun was shining in the forest. On the other hand, second day was a morning scenery. It gradually became brighter, and soft sunlight shone into the forest. It was an even more beautiful sight than the first day. According to the guide, it is more beautiful when it rains because the moss becomes wetter, but I did not want to go that far as a photographer.

I initially wondered that it could be a waste of time to go to Yakushima on a short one-night stay, but I was right to take the chance. I fully enjoyed the forest and sushi, extremely satisfied.

It seemed that the gods of Yakushima had truly told me to come.

Memories of Hiroshima (Originally posted on 2023-Sep-24)

Back in June, I had to visit Hiroshima Prefecture. It was during the rainy season, so I was not fully excited, but it was fixed. Still, I made a small room to adjust my itinerary according to the weather.

There is an old town called Tomonoura in Fukuyama City, east side of Hiroshima, where I had been interested in visiting. It is a small old port town with an old lighthouse.

I decided to make an overnight stay at Tomonoura, take a boat to Onomichi, and from there take a scenic train on the Kure Line along Seto Inland Sea to Hiroshima Station. Although it was initially a short weekend trip only from Saturday to Sunday, I would be able to enjoy much of Seto Inland Sea if the weather is good.

As usual, I looked at the weekly weather forecast many times and found that the weather for Friday was supposed to be good but the weather for the weekend might not. I considered to forcefully change the original plan and started with a visit to Itsukushima Shrine in the afternoon on Friday.

Except for a short visit to a bar in Onomichi about 20 years ago on my way to Shikoku Island, this was my first visit to Hiroshima Prefecture in about 40 years. I remember seeing the Atomic Bomb Museum and Itsukushima Shrine and looked forward to riding “Blue Train,” a sleeper train, back to Tokyo when I was in elementary school. Even after digging up those memories, I have a few recollections, including the oddly long ride on the streetcar from Miyajima-guchi to Hiroshima City.

Anyway, for this time, I found that high tide at Hiroshima Port would be around 2:00 p.m. on the Friday. This was matched to the time of my visit. With expected sunny weather and high tide, besides I was in Hiroshima Prefecture anyway, I decided to go to Itsukushima Shrine.

The Itsukushima Island was full of tourists. When I looked the famous torii gate on the Sea, there were many buildings behind, on the other side of the Inland Sea. Not sure what I really expected, but Itsukushima Shrine was in a suburb of Hiroshima, which was a big city. Still, the view of the large torii gate on the sea was spectacular, and the background buildings could be removed by Photoshop.

As I was sitting on a bench and looking the torii gate, I imagined that my family had not checked the tidal condition when I first visited here. It might be difficult to completely forget the beautiful scenery at high tide. On the other hand, I heard that I could walk to the torii gate when the tide is low, which would have left me with some strong memories. From the fact that I do not remember any at all, I must have come here at a halfway time. As a result, all I recall in Hiroshima were that horrified memory at the Atomic Bomb Museum and long streetcar ride, but nothing on Itsukushima Shrine.

With these thoughts in mind, I paid my respects at Itsukushima Shrine and took pictures and then headed to Tomonoura.

It was cloudy in the early evening at Tomonoura but cleared up just before sunset. The entire sky turned pink just after sunset and gradually became dark blue. Because it was on a weekday, there was no tourist, locals do not seem to care. I enjoyed very colorful yet quiet evening.

I took a bus back to Fukuyama City center and visited to an old bar “Akatsuki”, which I had visited its Onomichi branch about 20 years ago. I recalled they had operated two bars back then. I have heard that the Onomichi branch was closed few years ago, but the Fukuyama branch was still in business. To my surprise, the bartender was 80 years old running his bar day-by-day.

It was a very satisfying day.

The next day was cloudy as predicted, and I continued my trip as planned. I drank sake while eating sushi lunch in Onomichi, drank cocktails on a scenic train which had a bar, and ate okonomiyaki with whisky highball in Hiroshima City. They were what I could not been achieved as an elementary school student. 40 years are long time. Some of years may have been wasted in my life, but I am glad to become an old man.

Although there are no Blue Trains anymore, I was able to fully enjoy Hiroshima Prefecture after the 40 years.

Memories of Murodo (Originally posted on 2023-Dec-18)

This summer was unusually hot probably due to El Nino. When I was a child, it was on news when maximum temperature exceeded 30 degrees Celsius in Tokyo, but it is not unusual even the temperature exceeds 35 degrees Celsius in these days.

Despite such climate, it is probably not a good idea to go up north for a summer vacation. I heard that it was hot even in Hokkaido Island this year. Maybe I could be in cold weather in North Pole. Alternatively, it would probably be able to find a cooler place in Siberia, but the current situation in Russia makes it difficult. I need to find somewhere realistic.

On the other hand, I have heard that it was cool at climbing entrance of Mt. Fuji even in this summer. Of course, this is not in the Arctic or Siberia, but in just outside of the Kanto area, Shizuoka and Yamanashi Prefectures. There are cooler places in Japan if you look for them. It is likely cooler going up in three-dimensionally rather than going northward in two-dimensionally.

In the meantime, I happened to get a reservation at a hotel in Murodo on the Tateyama Alpine Route. The altitude is around 2,450 meters, which is about as same as the climbing entrance of Mt. Fuji, so it should be cool weather in Murodo.

During the peak season, the hotel in Murodo is difficult to book and the schedule cannot be changed at last minute. Even if the weather is not good, you cannot go wrong if you think it as a summer getaway.

On departure day, it was the time when a typhoon was approaching Kanto area. I booked the first Hokuriku Shinkansen train so that I could leave before the typhoon reached, but it was not a clear day even if I went across mountains further to Sea of Japan side of the country. It was good that it did not heavily rain though.

Murodo was cold due to the strong wind blowing from the Nagano Prefecture. I walked around in the light rain until check-in time. After that, I snuggled under a blanket in my room. Not enough from a photographic point of view, but it was supposed to be perfect as a heat retreat.

As a photographer and blogger, I got up before sunrise in the next morning. However, Mt. Tateyama was in the clouds. The night before, I had three glasses of whiskey at the hotel bar, and I had hungover, perhaps because the high altitude affects the circulation of alcohol in my system. Waking up early does not do any good to me. I immediately returned to bed.

I woke up again before the noon. It was still cloudy, but there was no point in staying in my room. I went for a walk.

As it is said “every dog has its day,” I was able to see a family of rock ptarmigan. This alone was worth the trip. Moreover, the weather started to improve in the afternoon. The next morning looked promising. Since I am not a dog, I went to bed without going to the bar to ensure I could wake up early in the next morning.

Indeed, it was clear and sunny. I took my camera and walked to the place I had spotted the day before. I was able to enjoy quite a nice sunrise.

Having enjoyed Murodo, I decided to go down the mountain early. On the way down, I got off the bus at Midagahara for trekking. I then returned to Toyama Station in the early afternoon.

The altitude of Toyama Station is about 7 meters above sea level. With altitude differences of 2,440 meters, the temperature should have been around 14.5 degrees Celsius higher, and it was actually 32 degrees Celsius in Toyama City.

As expected, it was not much different from the heat of Tokyo although I went up north. I walked around in Toyama City in the extreme heat until time for evening sushi restaurant reservation.

I learned that the key to avoiding the heat was the altitude. However, I spoiled my body by escaping from the heat, and I began to suffer from summer fatigue from the day after I returned home. It seemed that effects from extreme heat I had endured in all summer came at once, and the malaise continued for more than a month, until mid-October.

I am unaccustomed to extreme heat and I am unaccustomed to heat retreat. It is difficult for a middle-aged man to live comfortably in summer.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Central Hokkaido (Originally posted on 2024-Mar-17)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0900 (Japan Airlines JAL507) >> Sapporo New Chitose 1030
New Chitose Airport 1106 (Rapid Express Airport 111) >> Otaru 1222

Lunch: LeTAO

Otaru Canal

Dinner: Ise Sushi

Bars: Nikka Bar Rita, Bar HATTA, BOTA

Overnight stay: Hotel Nord

Tips for the 1st day
– We went to the Rita Bar before sushi restaurant, and started with Nikka whisky with water. Although I usually prefer single malt, Super Nikka is surprisingly tasty with water or highball. After the dinner, tried few glasses of old Nikka single malt whiskies at Bar HATTA and BOTA.

Day 2

Otaru Station 0900 (local bus) >> Yoichi Station 0935

Nikka Yoichi Distillery

Yoichi 1231 (JR Train) >> Otaru 1255
Otaru 1319 (JR Train) >> Naebo 1409

Sapporo Beer Garden

Dinner: Shikisai

Sapporo 1924 (Express Airport 194) >> New Chitose Airport 2003
Sapporo New Chitose 2105 (Japan Airlines JAL 528) >> Tokyo Haneda 2245

Tips for Dat 2
– You can take both train and bus between Otaru and Yoichi depending on schedule availability, bus stops are in front of stations. The distillery is a walking distance from Yoichi Station.
– We took the Sapporo City Tram and went to “Shikisai”, which we had heard about from a person living in Sapporo. It is a popular izakaya (Japanese style pub) among locals. It is interesting because there are many local fish that we have never heard of.