Memories of Otaru (Originally posted on 2024-Mar-03)

As my friends often tease me, my life is full of routine. In fact, I try to live my daily life with a few limited restaurants and bars, rarely try new places. Part of this is because I wish to avoid to make erroneous choices selecting where I eat or drink, but I would rather have places where I feel comfortable. I do not want to bother the restaurant chefs, but I hope them to make slight adjustments to the dishes because I have many dislikes in terms of food ingredients. I also wish to leave them to decide brand of whisky or sake to because it is too much trouble for me.

As for the bars, I visit three bars every week, one each by day (Thursday, Friday, and Saturday). One of the bartenders, who I visit on Saturdays (tentative name: Saturday bartender), was going to visit Nikka Yoichi Distillery, so he would close the bar on Saturday only once in last November.

Visit days in a week are fixed only in my mind, there are no legal or physical restrictions except all three are closed on Sundays. Therefore, it is possible, for example, to swap the bar I go on Friday and on Saturday for one particular week.

However, human beings get caught up in habits. Just because we can theoretically do something about a problem, it does not mean that we actually do it. One usual case is, even though you know that eating breakfast is good for your health, you do not (or cannot) get up even a few minutes early. You may not take the underlying problem seriously, so you may get carried away by the habit.

Similarly, it is difficult for me to visit my Saturday bar on Friday. It could be because the trains are more crowded on Friday than on Saturday, or because there is a chance that more regular customers I know visiting the bar on Saturday, but no concrete reasons. Even though it would be easy to take an action, I am bound by my habit and hard to make even a minor change.

Still, the bar will be closed on a Saturday in November. I can physically go in front of the bar, but its door will be closed, so I have to do something about it although I am now a slave of my habit.

Then, on one of Saturdays, the Saturday bartender asked me if I knew any restaurants in Otaru, nearby city of the distillery. I had visited Yoichi Distillery a few years ago and liked one sushi restaurant in Otaru.

The rest was just a usual story in a bar. As we talked about airline tickets and hotel arrangements, we ended up getting drunk and I said I was going to Otaru and joining him from his 2nd day.

In general, such travel plans are unmaterialized. It is a typical case that just because you can do something theoretically, it does not mean you actually do it.

Yet, I try to take travel seriously. It happened that there were seats available on frequent flyer award ticket from Tokyo Haneda to Sapporo Shin-Chitose and back. If out-of-pocket expense is one-night hotel stay only, I can take it seriously without being so serious.

We have heard that there are several good bars in Otaru, and we planned to visit three if possible. We would surely have sake at the sushi restaurant, so we would have four drinking places in total. As a middle-aged man whose ability to get alcohol out from my system is weaken as getting older, this is theoretically possible, but it is extremely ambitious.

The plan was that we would meet at the first bar in the evening for an aperitif, before going to the sushi restaurant. I was free until then, so I would arrive Otaru by noon on Saturday, and have a piece of cheesecake at LeTAO where is famous for it. If the weather is nice, I would love to see the Otaru Canal and Otaru Port.

I headed for Otaru without much to think, but it was already winter in Hokkaido. With the first strong chill came for the season, the first snow was falling it Sapporo/Otaru area on that day. The temperature was 2 degrees Celsius at the time of arrival and the wind speed was 6 meters per second, effective temperature must have been below zero. Contrary, a few days back, Kanto area had first November “summer day (daytime temperature above 25 degrees Celsius)” in last 44 years.

The unexpected weather did not discourage me. I had a lunch and cake at LeTAO, strolled along the Otaru Canal and Otaru Port despite the freezing cold weather, and enjoyed Otaru night by drinking at one sushi restaurant and three bars all as initially planned.

Putting all other things aside, I can take a travel seriously. When food or drinking plans are added, it is further intense. After all, just because something can be done theoretically, whether or not an action is actually taken depends on one’s perception to the fundamental issues. I am a type of person who try something only what/when I like to do.

Looking back to it, I was told something similar when I was in elementary school. I have not changed in 40 years owing my perception to my own underlying problem.

Memories of Oirase (Originally posted on 2024-May-12)

I went to Hakodate almost on a whim and encountered a blizzard, so I ended my trip without taking many pictures. The weather at Goshougake Onsen, where I had visited just before that trip, was also not good from a photographic point of view. As a person who loves northern winters, I was frustrated.

Both schedule-driven trips and spur-of-the-moment trip have resulted in frustration. I had no choice but to make a trip based on the weather. My extremely busy days was over in January. I could decide new itinerary.

From the day after I returned from Hakodate, I looked the calendar and the weekly weather forecast every day. Finally, there was a forecast for clear skies from Sunday to Monday in mid-February. Again, there were seats available on the frequent flyer award ticket to Misawa, so I decided to go to Oirase Keiryu (mountain stream), which I had failed to visit last time.

I had already planned the route, but I wanted to get to Oirase earlier than the hotel shuttle bus because I was going on a local tour on the day of arrival. After looking at the local bus schedule, I found that I could get to Oirase on my own by connecting three local bus routes from Misawa Airport. The routes were Misawa Airport / Misawa Station / Towada City Central / Yakeyama. Although all routes were operated by the same company, the schedule and operations did not seem to take into account the needs for connecting, but I managed to reach Oirase.

The weather was as good as forecasted, but there were other problems to consider. It had been an unusually warm winter this year, with mid-March like temperatures already in mid-February, the icicles on the rock were finished, and there was little accumulated snow. I was able to take some beautiful pictures, but the less of the snow made them less impressive.

In the end, it may have been like “mickle fails that fools think”. This winter was a mild one, and no matter I tried, I could not help but feel unsatisfied.

Photography is one of the main purposes of a trip, but it may not be the only one. Going to an unfamiliar place, eating unfamiliar food, and drinking unfamiliar sake. In my case, I am not good at talking to strangers to socialize but I can still experience something out of the ordinary.

Ultimately, I think travel is an opportunity to think about what it means to life. Not something on the surface like frustration with the bus company’s schedule, but something a more inside in mind. I wish to think through unknown experiences, and through traveling, I can get essence of myself that lies deep within my emotions.

Perhaps it is my own immaturity that causes me to be frustrated during a trip to Hakodate in snow and rain storms that ended with only one photo shoot. I should have overcome my frustration, thought about something and reach to something. As Blaise Pascal said “man is a thinking reed”.

Although, in my case, it may be indeed “mickle fails that fools think”.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Oirase Keiryu

The time and other information in this page are the timetable at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Haneda 0735 (Japan Airlines JAL153) >> Misawa 0855
Misawa Airport 0910 (bus) >> Misawa Station 0926
Misawa Station 1045 (bus) >> Towada Chuo 1114
Towada-Chuo 1124 (bus) >> Yakiyama 1215

– Oirase Keiryuu Tour

Overnight stay: Oirase Keiryu Hotel

Tips for Day 1
– The bus from Misawa Airport to Misawa Station was slightly delayed. The bus to Towada departed right in front of me at 0927 on the schedule.
– The “Towada City Machinaka Kotsu Hiroba” should work as a hub of local buses, but the bus going to Towada from Misawa does not stop there but stops at a nearby bus stop with a different name.
– The bus from Misawa to Towada was 7 minutes late, and I was a bit nervous because it was not difficult to imagine that my 3rd bus would wait to connect. In the end, it was a three-minute connection, so if the 2nd bus had been delayed by one more traffic signal, I would have missed the connection. As is in such cases, the bus to which I was transferring made a stop on the other side of the street.

Day 2

– Oirase Keiryu Tour

Oirase Keiryu Hotel 1030 (shuttle bus) >> Aomori Station 1230
Aomori station 1325 (bus) >> Aomori airport 1400
Aomori 1500 (Japan Airlines JAL146) >> Haneda 1625

Tips for the 2nd day
– When I arrived in front of Aomori station, I felt something unusual. Thinking about it for a while, I realized that it was the first time I came to Aomori without snow. I could kill time outdoors. I ate an apple pie (Aomori is famous for its apples) while looking at the clear Aomori Port.
– I do not like the bleak feeling when I arrive at Tokyo Haneda Airport on Sunday night, but weekday afternoon arrivals are rather peaceful.

Memories of Hakodate (Originally posted on 2024-Apr-28)

On the three-day weekend after New Year holidays, I went snow trekking in Goshougake Onsen. I had originally planned to visit Goshogake at the end of January using my compensatory holiday for my duty day during New Year holidays, but since the hotel was closed for renovation work, I had to advance my schedule. I was supposed to be satisfied with the three-day weekend, but the weather was not good and the photos were not good enough either.

In other words, I was not fully satisfied, and I still had day off from the New Year holiday. Without much thought, there was only one conclusion.

Even so, January was extremely busy, time passed without anything materialized. As the end of the month approached, I remembered my company rule that compensatory holiday must be taken within four weeks. I quickly decided to take one day off and made out a three-day weekend. However, my schedule was already packed on Saturday, and I looked for a two-day trip from Sunday to Monday.

This winter weather was said to be mild in Japan, but I still wanted to go somewhere with snow. Since I did not have time to make a plan from scratch, I decided to revisit Oirase Keiryu (mountain stream), where I visited several years ago, as a place where I could enjoy photography.

As expected in the off peak season, there were seats available on frequent flyer award ticket even at the last minute.

On the 1st day, fly from Tokyo to Misawa, then take local bus to Hachinohe and connect to a hotel shuttle bus to Oirase. Taking advantage of the hotel’s local activities provided, I can photograph the Oirase Keiryu day and night without renting a car.

On the way back, I can took a shuttle bus to Aomori Station and then take the Hokkaido Shinkansen to Hakodate where I can visit at a high-end sushi restaurant, finally go direct from the restaurant to Hakodate Airport return to Tokyo on the last flight.

When I came up with this plan, it was a few days prior to the departure. I had to make arrangements as early as possible. Without thinking much about, I got the airline tickets. Finally, I realized the hotel cancellation fee was already 100% as it was a last minute.

Once the hotel reservation was made, there was no turning back. I made sure things work out, but while there were rooms available, both shuttle bus and local activities were full. The only way was to rent a car, but I do not like driving. I have only driven in summer, and snow-covered roads were new to me. I heard that the rental car was equipped with studless snow tires, but I guess such tires are not omniscient god.

I did not have much time to worry about it, but I decided to give up the idea of going to Oirase. However, I had already taken a day-off and booked a plane tickets. It was the last weekend when I could take a compensatory day off, and I didn’t think it would be a good idea to pay a cancellation fee for free tickets. I decided to stay in the Hakodate area and look for an onsen, considering the high-class sushi restaurant to be the main part of the trip.

Hakodate is known for its Yunokawa Onsen, but since it is within the city area, I decided to pass on that. After carefully looking at a map of southern Hokkaido, I found a hot spring resort called “Hotel Keibu” on the outskirts of Hakodate. It is located near the entrance to the Tsugaru Straits, heading east from Hakodate City. I checked out the hotel and found that it was possible to request a pick-up service, so I made a reservation in the afternoon of the day before departure.

I had to catch a plane from Tokyo Haneda Airport at 7:35 a.m. to Misawa Airport in order to catch the Shinkansen train to Hakodate, which departed from Tokyo Station at 8:20 a.m. This made no sense, but I connected all the way Misawa / Hachinohe / Shin-Aomori / Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto by trains, and headed for Hakodate.

When the Shinkansen exited the Seikan Tunnel onto Hokkaido Island, there was a blizzard. From Hakodate Station, we boarded a hotel shuttle and proceeded along the Tsugaru Strait. All it was a very sadly monotone world.

However, it was not only a monotone world. By the time I arrived at the inn, it was blizzarding so hard we couldn’t even see around.

The next day, the temperature rose and it rained heavily. There was a lighthouse in front of the hotel and a fishing port within walk away, so I brought my camera in hopes of taking some pictures, but it was useless.

Before departing from the hotel, there was a moment when the rain stopped slightly, and I was able to go out and take a picture of the lighthouse. I braved walk into the accumulated snow to take a photo, but it was cold with strong winds so I gave up early. In the rest of the trip, I had not taken the camera out of my bag. In the end, I finished the trip with far fewer shots than at Goshougake, which I had left dissatisfied.

As a photographer, I know weather condition is a matter of luck. Still, I was able to find a satisfactory lodging, including its rugged outermost location and nice stuffs. Since it is likely to be crowded in summer, I thought to revisit the hotel in late fall or early winter.

I should be satisfied with having found a good lodging, but I was not fully convinced by myself.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Hakodate

The times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit. I do not recommend my onward journey at all, just to show how irrational it was.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0735 (Japan Airlines JAL153) >> Misawa 0855
Misawa Airport 0910 (Airport Bus) >> Misawa Station 0926
Misawa 0944 (Aoimori Railway) >> Hachinohe 1004
Hachinohe 1025 (Shinkansen Hayabusa 5) >> Shin-Aomori 1052 – 1120 (Shinkansen Hayabusa 7) >> Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto 1217
Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto 1235 (JR Line) >> Hakodate 1250

Hakodate Station 1400 (shuttle bus) >> Hotel 1520

Overnight stay: Hotel Keibu

Tips for Day 1
– The hotel was chosen without any plan at all, but it was wonderful. There were only 3 groups of 6 people staying on Sunday night, and I was able to spend a relaxing time.

Day 2

Hotel 1000 (shuttle bus) >> Hakodate Station 1120

Lunch: Lucky Pierrot

Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples

Dinner: Sushi Restaurant Kihara

Hakodate 1920 (All Nippon Airways ANA558) >> Tokyo Haneda 2050

Tips for Day 2
– If you eat Lucky Pierrot (a famous local fast-food place) for lunch, it will affect the sushi from 5:00 p.m.
– If you start Sushi Kitahara at 5:00 p.m., you will be served before it gets crowded, so you can eat well and drink enough sake then to catch the last flight.