Memories of Gunma

Last summer, I stayed at Yubiso Onsen and took Tanigawa Ropeway to Tenjindaira for trekking. Unfortunately, Mt. Tanigawa was hidden behind by clouds. I heard that Mt. Tanigawa would be crowded with people enjoying the autumn leaves, so I was thinking of revisiting during the late-lying snow season.

Taking the ropeway to see Mt. Tanigawa up close is not bad, but trekking to Ichinokurasawa allows to see the majestic rock walls of Mt. Tanigawa, which is said to be a breathtaking view. The road to Ichinokurasawa-deai, the entrance to Ichinokurasawa, is closed during the winter. It would be re-opened from late May. That should be in the time of May sunshine season before the rainy season in June.

After returning from trip to Mexico, I read an online article that Japanese National Railways’ EF58 locomotive on display at a railway preservation facility in Yokokawa had undergone repainting. Since she was displayed outdoors, I wanted to take photos while the paint was still beautiful. Both Yokokawa and Mt. Tanigawa were in Gunma Prefecture, it seemed a good one-day trip plan.

I kept checking the weather forecast of Gunma Prefecture almost every day. Perhaps because the rainy season front moved northward earlier in this year, the weather was consistently unfavorable. I finally found one day in mid-May that looked promising, but even that day did not seem to be entirely sunny. Considering the possibility that the weather might not be improved even if I waited until the end of May, I decided to visit Yokokawa first.

The day looked promising was Tuesday. If I cleaned-up all of my work on Monday, it would not be too busy at the office on that day. Considering wake-up time, taking the Shinkansen to Takasaki is ideal, but as an old man with claustrophobia who cannot stand crowded trains, I can only take commuter trains early in the morning on weekdays. I took the first regular train on the Tokaido Line from Yokohama and rode all the way to Takasaki, stopping at all stations.

I transferred to the Shinetsu Line at Takasaki and arrived Yokokawa. I then found that the railway preservation facility was closed. I was aware that Yokokawa’s famous kama-meshi (rice cooked in a pot) restaurant, Ogino-ya’s main shop was closed on Tuesdays. I had wondered why another branch along the national road in Yokokawa was also closed on Tuesdays, but I thought I finally understood the reason. I realized that the world did not revolve around me, but it was already too late. To prevent further damage, I returned to Tokyo using Shinkansen and worked from home in the afternoon.

The weather remained unfavorable for several days, but in the following week, forecast predicted good weather on Wednesday and Friday. However, the clear skies were expected only until mid-morning on both days, so I still had to split my plan into two occasions. Since the trekking road to Ichinokurasawa-deai was scheduled to reopen on that Friday, I decided to revisit Yokokawa on Wednesday.

From there on, it was basically as same as the previous week. Yet, I was able to take some satisfying photos and ate kama-meshi at the Ogino-ya’s main shop as originally planned.

Even though I am who I am, I can supposedly learn something. While waiting for a train on the way back, I called the tourist information office of Minakami Town. I was told that due to possibilities of avalanche, the trekking road would remain closed for some more time.

Indeed, I learned that the world did not revolve around me.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Yokokawa

Listed schedule is based on timetable at the time of visit.

Yokohama 0525 (JR) > Takasaki 0750
Takasaki 0804 (JR) > Yokokawa 0837

Usui Pass Railway Culture Village
Kama-meshi Ogino-ya

Yokokawa 1110 (JR) > Takasaki 1141
Takasaki 1152 (JR) > Yokohama 1413

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Guanajuato

The times listed are based on the schedule at the time of visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 1055 (Japan Airlines JL12) > Dallas-Fort Worth 0830
Dallas-Fort Worth 1335 (American Airlines AA3028) > León-Guanajuato 1500

Accommodation: Hotel Balcon del Cielo

Day 1 Tips
• I made transfer from an international flight to another international flight at Dallas. Unlike other US airports, baggage was automatically transferred to the connecting flight, but I still had to go through US immigration. Hence, I needed to obtain ESTA in advance. The immigration inspection was relatively lenient for US entry as they seem to be aware of the connecting flight information.
• There was a pre-paid taxi counter at Guanajuato Airport. It seems that Uber is not available at this airport.

Days 2–4

• Walk around Guanajuato
• Visit to Valenciana Templo de San Cayetano
Tequila distillery visit

Restaurants:
Tacos “El Paisa II”
Carnitas Patlán
Casa Valadez Anfitrión & Gourmet

Tips for Days 2-4
• I loved a local tacos place named El Paisa II, especially an English-speaking lady who had a good hospitality. I wished they served a beer though.
• Near Hidalgo Market (Mercado Hidalgo), there was a bakery called Panadería El Centro with an eat-in space serving drinks. I enjoyed sweet pastries and sweet coffee for breakfast many times.
• There is a beautiful cathedral in a nearby town of Valenciana. I tried to take the local bus, waited at the bus stop in front of Hidalgo Market. After waiting for a while, I asked around and found out that the bus departed from a different place, in front of Explanada de la Alhondiga. Seemed there was no bus stop sign but there were people waited the bus under a tree. I ended up passing it by and got lost. Thanks to the help of two Mexicans, I was able to avoid taking a taxi.

Day 5

León-Guanajuato 1045 (AA877) > Dallas-Fort Worth 1415
Dallas-Fort Worth 2140 (JL11) > Tokyo Haneda 0110 ++

Day 5 Tips
• I used Uber to return to the airport. The driver called his wife or girlfriend who spoke English, then she asked me if I had cash. The driver stopped Uber app where was equivalent to the tip, and I paid the Uber-displayed amount in cash. Total amount was reasonable to me, still lower than pre-paid taxi at the airport. I have used many of these apps including in Mexico, yet this was first time doing this.
• There was a flood warning issued in Dallas, JL11 was operated on an irregular schedule. It was my first 3-day flight.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Sichuan Province

Times listed are based on the schedule at the time of visit.

Day 1

Chengdu East 0645 (China Railway C5782) > Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou 0824
Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou Station 0900 (shared van) > Jiuzhaigou 1100

・ Jiuzhaigou

Accommodation: Steigenberger Jiuzhaigou Valley

Day 1 Tips
• I booked China Railway train tickets through Trip.com, securing reserved seat tickets were challenging. Even Chengdu-Chongqing route connecting two major cities of Sichuan Province, which I traveled for work-related reasons, it was extremely difficult to book a desired train. Yet, the trains were sometimes empty when I boarded.
• It seemed that Jiuzhaigou entrance tickets could not be booked on Trip.com, I asked a friend who had a Chinese bank account to book them for me.
・Both the train and the tourist attraction entrance tickets are real-name system, passport information is required for reservation. It is also needed to have passport for entrance.
• I also booked the transfer from Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou Station to Jiuzhaigou on Trip.com. I chose a minivan that offered hotel drop-off. I thought it had been all set, however, I became nervous because I could not find the driver at the meeting point stated on the reservation confirmation. I used photos and WeChat automatic translation for the driver to find me instead. It was an analog experience in digital ways.
• The entrance to Jiuzhaigou is IT-enabled and “civilized” as Chinese government may say, but the bus stop was a dog-eat-dog world of olden China.

Day 2

・Jiuzhaigou

Day 3

Jiuzhaigou (shared van) > Huanglong

・ Huanglong

Huanglong (shared van) > Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou Station
Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou 1812 (China Railway C5798) > Chengdu East 2039

Day 3 Tips
• I had initially booked a later train in case of delays during the journey to the station, but it turned out I could easily make two trains earlier. Upon checking on Trip.com, I found there was one seat available in first class, so I changed my reservation. Even if I had to pay the cancellation fee, it was crucial not to give up the train ticket until the very last minute.