While reading news articles in early June, I learned that the ice had begun to melt at Mikurigaike Pond in Murodo on the Tateyama Alpine Route, turning the pond color to blue. At that time, I did not think much of it. However, a few days later, I heard my wife was taking a day off from work to visit to Kamakura with her friends. I could not find any logical correlation, but if that was the case, maybe I should have taken the day off too.
Just before the rainy season began, a high-pressure system passed over Japan on a Thursday to following Friday. Looking at my office schedule, that Friday was planned as a work-from-home day. Taking one-day off on the Friday would likely have minimal impact to my work. In Toyama Prefecture, Thursday evening seemed to be the best time, as the system was expected to move out over the Pacific side of Tohoku region by Friday morning. Even so, with both the low-pressure system and the rainy season front were far away, weather conditions did not seem bad.
While there seemed to be no logical correlation between my wife’s plan and my own, I reviewed my schedule logically. I realized that I had taken days off from work in the previous month to visit Gunma and Niigata, causing me to hesitate. In times like this, my theory is not to make decisions on my own will. Despite it was the day before, I managed to make a reservation at a sushi restaurant in Toyama City. This must be the gods of Toyama telling me to come. Since there was no use crying over spilled milk, I decided to go before I would cry. This was no longer a matter of logic anymore.
I boarded the first Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station and then took a bus from Nagano Station to Ogisawa. The live camera showed Murodo was under clear skies. I hurried to Murodo via the Alpine Route. At Daikanbo, the last viewpoint overlooking Nagano Prefecture (the Pacific) side, it was mostly clear with a few clouds.
From there, I took an electric bus, passing through a tunnel under Mt. Tateyama to reach the Sea of Japan side. After a 4.5-hour journey from Tokyo Station, I arrived at Murodo, finding it was overcast. The sun was hidden behind clouds, and blue color of Mikurigaike Pond did not appear as vividly blue as I would hope.
Although they were little too far from what I expected, I thought it was okay as I was able to see the ridgeline of Tateyama Range. When I got out my camera from backpack, I heard a strange “goo-goo” sound. Although I thought it might be a weird tourist making a stupid noise, it was really a ptarmigan. It was indeed myself who was stupid at that moment.
I continued walking and saw several ptarmigans, making me wonder if they were really designated as Special Natural Monuments of Japan. Perhaps it was molting season, I was able to observe multiple plumage patterns.
After a while, the clouds thinned, and sunlight began to break through. I immediately returned to Mikurigaike Pond, the sunlight made the blue water shimmer. A miraculous moment occurred – the Pond’s waves stilled and Mt. Tateyama was perfectly reflected on the surface.
I savored the breathtaking view until the very last time before heading toward Toyama City for sushi restaurant.
The sushi restaurant was delicious, and I went back to Toyama Station just before getting completely drunk. I bought “oshi-zushi (pressed sushi in a wooden box)” as a final treat before heading to the Shinkansen platform. I was self-praised, thinking everything on that day was super perfect, but then I boarded the wrong Shinkansen. Being tipsy, I just jumped onto the first train arrived, then realized it was indeed the previous train.
In case like this, it was almost obvious that the train stopped at almost all stations beyond. Although the reserved train I should have boarded passed at an intermediate station and my arrival to home eventually delayed, I managed to get a seat on the return Shinkansen actually boarded. I supposed that was something good end. It was not super perfect, but overall, it was a highly satisfying day.
After all, if timing seems right, it is wise to act without hesitation. Fact of the matter is that I would not cry before the milk is spilled.
COLO’s Traveler Guide: Tateyama Alpine Route
Tokyo 0616 (Kagayaki 501) > Nagano 0736
Nagano Station 0750 (Bus) > Ogizawa 0925
Ogizawa 0930 (Electric Bus) > Kurobe Dam 0946
Kurobe Lake 1010 (Cable Car) > Kurobe-daira 1015
Kurobe-daira 1030 (Ropeway) > Daikanbo 1037
Daikanbo 1045 (Electric Bus) > Murodo 1055
・Murodo
Murodo 1420 (Bus) > Bijodaira 1510
Bijodaira 1540 (Cable Car) > Tateyama 1547
Tateyama 1603 (Train) > Toyama 1700
Dinner: Sushi-ei Kakeo Branch
Toyama 1940 (Kagayaki 516… missed) > Tokyo 2156
Tips
・Since Murodo is in Toyama Prefecture, I thought going via Toyama would be faster, but it turns out going via Nagano saves about an hour.