Austere Training / Akita | JNR Series EF64-1000 Electric Locomotives

JNR Series EF64-1000

JNR Series EF64-1000

Cab of JNR Series EF64-1000

Good Olden Days

Internet advertising algorithms are remarkably accurate. After I attended a locomotive photography event at JR East Akita General Rolling Stock Center, an ad for another JR East event popped up. It said that a viewing event for Series EF64-1000, a locomotive model originally built by Japanese National Railways (JNR), would be held at the same JR facility. The event would feature two powered locomotives on display, and apparently, they would even let visitors see the driver’s cab. JR East has been scraping its JNR-era electric locomotives, so this might be the last chance to see the actual locomotives. I love JNR-era locomotives, and I also enjoy factory tours; having visited the Akita General Rolling Stock Center before, I knew the location offered a great atmosphere for photography.

After some hesitation last time, I realized that just because it was a railway event, I did not necessarily have to travel there by train. Using a frequent flyer award ticket would cut travel costs, making the decision a bit easier.

Even though such relatively easier decision was made, I still have to wonder how many times I am going to Akita Prefecture in a year. Everyone around me already knew I had different tastes, but this would be my fourth trip to Akita in first half of 2026; that was surely too much. I decided not to tell even my family about this trip at all.

By the way, I loved historical novels back in high school, particularly the works of Shotaro Ikenami and Shuhei Fujisawa. Ikenami’s stories often featured the “commoner lands” of Edo (old name of Tokyo), which was easy for me to visualize since I grew up in the old town area of eastern central Tokyo. In contrast, I found Shuhei Fujisawa, whose stories are often said to be set in Shonai region of Yamagata Prefecture, more difficult to get into at the time.

However, after recent visits to places like Sakata and Kisakata, I have started reading Fujisawa’s works again. Perhaps because I could now visualize the setting, or simply because I have gotten older, I found them incredibly interesting now. A friend who works in publishing once told me that while Ikenami’s works were mysteries, Fujisawa’s were economic novels. If that distinction holds true, then the latter is likely the real reason.

I shared these thoughts, along with stories about my visit to Mototaki, with a bartender who hailed from Kisakata. I usually have four glasses of whisky at that bar; having kept up this routine for some twenty years, I know just how to enjoy a pleasant, moderate buzz.

Normally, the presence of other customers keeps slight tension as a public space; but on this particular night, the bar had no other guests. Twenty years is a long time; long enough to let one’s guard down. I found myself while handing over photos I had taken in Kisakata, blurting out that I would be visiting Akita again.

It is human nature to become loose-lipped after a few drinks, but that can also be a weakness. Simply getting older is not enough; life requires a certain kind of austere training.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Akita

The times listed are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.

Tokyo Haneda 07:00 (Japan Airlines JAL161) > Akita 08:05
Akita Airport (Shared Taxi) > Akita General Rolling Stock Center

・JR East Akita General Rolling Stock Center

Tsuchizaki (JR Ou Line) > Akita
Akita Station (Airport Bus) > Akita Airport
Akita 15:50 (All Nippon Airways ANA408) > Tokyo Haneda 17:05

Skip / Kisakata | Southern Akita in Fresh Greenery

Mototaki Springs Waterfall

Mototaki Springs Waterfall

Nakajimadai Forest

Nakajimadai Forest

In high school days, I was constantly skipping classes. If asked why, the reason was that I did not want to go; furthermore, as a railway enthusiast at the time, there were photo opportunities that could only be pursued on weekdays. The root cause was simply that I was not free to take time off. It was not really my fault. Or so I told myself.

After becoming an adult, the frequency of skipping has dropped dramatically. It surely is not because I want to go to the office, but I have an obligation to work in exchange for my salary. That said, the paid leave system gives me the option to take time off; and constantly skipping work gets me fired which would completely defeat the purpose of skipping.

Last year, when visiting Sakata City in Yamagata Prefecture, a friend took me to Mototaki Springs Waterfall in Kisakata, Akita Prefecture. Like other famous spots in northern Yamagata (Shonai) to southern Akita area on the Sea of Japan, Mototaki was also magnificent.

My main goal for that trip was to photograph the sunset over the Sea of Japan from the limited express train on my way home, so I brought a compact camera that I could prop up on the train’s window frame. After adjusting the RAW files in Adobe Lightroom, I found the results were rather lacking; the compact camera was not able to fully render the rock surface in the extreme contrast at Mototaki. I needed to have a camera with large sensor to shoot Mototaki.

I was left feeling unsatisfied with the photos. Outside of work, I am the type of person who wants to resolve any unfinished issues as soon as possible. When I asked someone originally from Kisakata, he told me that during the clear, sunny days of May (called “May sunshine”) was an ideal, as it would be the fresh greenery season besides the water volume could be high.

“May sunshine” is literally in May, but for this year’s Japanese Golden Week in May, I took a nine-day break and visited Uzbekistan. Although the paid leave system exists, the reality is that as a Japanese salaryman, I cannot simply take time off whenever I want. Yet, even knowing this, I found myself checking the weather of Kisakata while I was in Uzbekistan. I suppose I am just stubborn; or maybe my behavior is simply inexplicable.

From what I learned in Uzbekistan, Okinawa’s rainy season had started early, and it looked like Honshu Island would see high temperatures starting in early May. I thought they suggested the period for fresh greenery in perfect May sunshine would be short.

I recall that I reached a similar conclusion last year, so maybe I am indeed impatient. Also, I may lack meteorological insight; I used to skip school constantly. In any case, I decided to act quickly.

For better or worse, a spell of clear weather was forecast for the week after I returned from Uzbekistan. Since I am impatient, I convinced myself that I had to seize the opportunity. By looking at the weather forecast and frequent flyer award ticket availabilities, Wednesday or Friday seemed promising.

At work, I devote all my power and wisdom as a manager to establish processes that make easier for my team to take time off. That said, taking a three-day weekend right after a full week of vacation was the toughest call. So, I decided to head to Kisakata on Wednesday.

In and of itself, it was only three days after returning from Uzbekistan. I thought I still needed to maintain some kind of reputations to uphold. So, despite being a working professional nearly fifty, I decided to skip the work at this time. Ultimately, the root cause of the skipping is inabilities to take time off freely on weekdays. It was not really my fault. Or so I told myself.

On the way back from Uzbekistan, I worked like a horse at Seoul Incheon Airport, clearing through the tasks that had piled up during my time off. I wrapped up the remaining work on Monday, acting as if nothing was amiss, and booked flights and a rental car in the evening. Then, on Tuesday afternoon, I announced that I would be taking the following day off due to a “family emergency.”

Thirty years have passed since my high school days, yet here I am doing the same thing. Still, I have matured enough to give a one-day advanced notice. Or so I told myself.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Kisakata

The times listed are based on the timetable at the time of visit. For this trip, I made the unusual choice of using a rental car.

Tokyo Haneda 07:05 (Japan Airlines JAL161) > Akita 08:10

・Konoura Fishry Port
・Mototaki Springs Waterfall
・Naso-no-Shirataki
・Nakajimadai Recreation Forest (Shishigahana Wetland)

Akita 16:55 (Japan Airlines JAL166) > Tokyo Haneda 18:10

Unexpected Surprises / Khiva | Complicated Itchan Kala Entrance Fees

Kalta Minor Minaret at Sunset

Islam Khodja Madrasah & Minaret at Night

A House Behind the Islam Khodja Minaret

Throne Room in Kuhna Ark

While Samarkand is Uzbekistan’s most famous ancient city, Bukhara and Khiva are other renowned historic cities in the country. By planning an itinerary with efficiency in mind, it is possible to visit all three cities on a nine-day trip from Japan. However, since my trip was focused on photography, I felt that visiting two cities was the max. Samarkand was a must, and after some consideration, I chose to go to Bukhara last year.

A major reason I decided to visit Uzbekistan again this year, making it two years in a row, was my desire to see Khiva. Khiva still retains its old town with city walls called Itchan Kala, a World Heritage Site. I looked for a hotel near the center of the old town, but places that looked promising were already booked while others were rather underwhelming such as cramped rooms. In the end, I booked a hotel located a short distance from the center.

Judging from hotel booking sites, the hotel looked quite nice; yet no credit card was required to guarantee the reservation. Honestly, this made me uneasy. I encountered a situation where advance payment via wire transfer was demanded. I also recalled an incident last year that a hotel I had booked in Samarkand had ceased business. Even though I suspected it would cost more than a ride-hailing app, I requested a transfer to the hotel just to let them know that I would be there as per booking. They might have trusted me, but I did not quite share same level of trust.

After the trouble getting on the sleeper train, I arrived at the hotel in Khiva. I had imagined that the city walls called Itchan Kala was a part of Khiva old town; but in reality, the Itchan Kala was the old town itself. Consequently, the hotel “located a short distance from the center” turned out to be a hotel located outside of the old town. I noticed them as I arrived, and to be honest, they made an unexpected surprise. Yet, the city gate was about a minute’s walk away. I dropped off my luggage and headed out to explore the Itchan Kala.

Entering the Itchan Kala requires passing through the city gates. The gates nowadays have ticket collectors instead of gatekeepers, saying that there is an admission fee just going into the Itchan Kala. Again, this was an unexpected surprise. From the time I had missed the train at Samarkand Station, the day was filled with unexpected surprises. They were clear cases of my own insufficient research; I had to start by checking the price list at the ticket booth.

There were few types of tickets available, that were a bit complicated. If I bought the ticket that included museum admission, I would have access to the Itchan Kala for two days. Since I planned to stay in Khiva for three nights, I decided to buy a simple entry ticket to the Itchan Kala on the first day, then to buy the two-day ticket on the following day.

Stepping inside the Itchan Kala, I found a remarkably well-preserved old town that felt like a completely different world. While inside the walled city of Dubrovnik had also felt otherworldly, Khiva surpassed Dubrovnik. As my first day ticket did not cover museum entry, I spent the time wandering the streets and relaxing at an outdoor cafe with a view of beautiful minaret. Clouds rolled and I could hear distant thunder; I was able to enjoy even more atmospheric evening.

In the following morning, I bought a museum-access ticket and began sightseeing. This ticket was a bit complicated too. While the ticket allows unlimited entry to the Itchan Kala for two days, if I wish to re-visit even one museum, I have to buy another two-day ticket. Furthermore, religious sites require separate fees. Since museums are originally mosques and madrasas (Islamic school), it is not always clear which places incur extra charges unless carefully examine a map.

Unfortunately, Juma Mosque, the site I most wanted to see, was under preservation work; I was only able to see half of it. Despite its name, Juma Mosque is classified as a museum rather than a mosque.

Considering I can visit religious sites multiple times by paying entrance fees, it is best to pick museums in advance and visit them in the morning when there are fewer tourists. After all, visiting Itchan Kala requires sufficient research. I was not supposed to be standing at the city gate with unexpected surprises after arriving at Khiva.

While strolling through the Itchan Kala, I happened to pass by a woodworking workshop. Uzbek mosques make extensive use of wooden pillars and doors, all featuring intricate carvings. I usually avoid these kinds of workshops because, even if admission is free, it feels awkward to leave empty-handed. However, since I was deeply impressed by Bolo Haouz Mosque in Bukhara last year, I decided to step inside. I would surely not end up being pressured into buying a wooden pillar.

A craftsman worked hard. I was allowed to take photos and see the finished pillars and doors up close. Before leaving, I checked out the shop area. There were elaborate carvings featuring Islamic patterns that I wanted to buy a piece; but there was no one around and no pressure to make a purchase. It is a hassle to shake off sellers at workshops where I am not interested; yet when I actually want to buy something, there is no seller around. I asked the craftsman to call over his master.

While Khiva is a city where is somewhat difficult to combine with Samarkand visit, I was quite satisfied. Although I had an unnecessary hard time getting Khiva, it was certainly worth the effort. Since there is an airport in a nearby town, taking a domestic flight to/from Tashkent for one leg of the journey allows a reasonably efficient travel itinerary even in my style.

On this trip, I made multiple unexpected surprises due to lack of research. Therefore, it is possible that there still are hidden insufficient research, I have managed to visit all cities in Uzbekistan that I can think of now. With these, I will not need to go to Uzbekistan three years in a row. Well… maybe.