Category: 旅 / Travel

Recently I have been to Goshougake Onsen almost every year. I have participated in snow trekking led by local guide for two years in a row, but the weather was poor both times. Last year, the second time, weather was so bad that I was told “if you wish to take photos, you have to come when it is sunny.” Snow trekking for three years in a row seemed too much even for me. I thought I would go to Oirase to see this year’s snowscapes instead, but I had a work schedule so that I had to cancel the Oirase plan.

I am not a type of person who gives up on a trip because of the work, so I rescheduled it for the end of February. My last visit to Oirase in mid-February was a bit too late for snowscapes. I did not feel like doing last minute research, so I decided to go to Goshougake Onsen for this year too. I had to make the trip from Friday to Sunday, but it was unfortunate that the snow trekking guide was not available on Saturdays.

In general, access from Tokyo to Goshougake Onsen is via Morioka, but I usually go there via Odate to enjoy a chicken rice lunch box sold at Odate Station and a restaurant serving oyakodon (chicken and egg on rice) made with local Hinai Jidori chicken. I think the best route is to fly from Tokyo Haneda Airport to Odate-Noshiro Airport by All Nippon Airways (ANA) for onward journey. Return trip is to take Akita Nairiku Line from Takanosu Station near Odate to Kakunodate Station then change to Akita Shinkansen for Tokyo.

Since snow trekking was not possible this time, I decided to visit Moriyoshi Mountain Ski Resort along the Akita Nairiku Line to see the snow monster (juhyo). Moriyoshi’s snow monster season lasts until early March, slightly longer than Zao where is also famous for snow monster. Moriyoshi is located near Ani Matagi Onsen, where I had stopped for a day trip few years ago, I decided to stay there overnight. Basically, the route was the same as previous years but a few changes.

This winter had remarkable severe cold waves and heavy snowfalls, and even though it was the end of February, stormy weather was reported for the Tohoku region. Nevertheless, the weather seemed to change periodically, and it was forecasted to clear up on Thursday afternoon, the day before departure. That was a welcome development, but due to the periodical change, the weather was expected to deteriorate from Saturday afternoon even though I had originally planned to go to Moriyoshi Mountain on Sunday, the last day of the trip.

I called the hotels and they were kind to change the reservation. The revised itinerary was going to Ani Matagi Onsen on the first day, and then to Goshougake Onsen on the second day. I thought it would be an easy change since I would only be moving around in the northern part of Akita Prefecture but found out that it was indeed very difficult to switch the order using public transportation. Yet I decided to take a chance.

I took off on ANA from sunny Tokyo to Odate-Noshiro, but there were many clouds below as the plane passed the northern Kanto region. Gloomy weather prevailed over Fukushima and Niigata, and I felt gloomy as well. Even so, breaks in the clouds began to appear as Akita Prefecture approached. By the time the plane arrived at Odate-Noshiro Airport, blue skies had opened up. I guess I had cleared the first step.

From this point, I had a tight schedule. Although the ANA flight was delayed 5 minutes, the airport bus departed on time, and I was able to catch Akita Nairiku Line train as planned. From its Aniai Station to Moriyoshi Mountain Ski Resort, there was shared taxi service available but I had to wait for 30 minutes. This meant that I would only have about an hour to spend at the ski resort. Since the weather was forecast to be fine, I booked a regular taxi from Aniai Station. It was to say I bought the 30 minutes by paying the fare difference between the regular taxi and shared one.

When I arrived at the ski resort and took the lift to snow monster area, sky was clear behind the snow monster. I was extremely lucky because there were light clouds on the other side of sky. The snow monster area in Moriyoshi Mountain was not as large as Zao, but they provided good service to non-skiers perhaps there were not as many visitors as Zao. I borrowed boots and stocks at the lift station and strolled around in the mountain looking at the snow monster. When I went down the mountain by lift, I was just in time to catch the shared taxi back to the train station. It was good that I bought the 30 minutes as I was fully able to enjoy the snow monster.

From Aniai Station, I boarded the Akita Nairiku Line again and got off at Ani Matagi Station to go to Ani Matagi Onsen. When I went to the open-air bath before dinner, I found the sky was bathed in the sunset glow.

I thought I heard a voice from Goshougake Onsen saying “if you wish to take photos, you have to come when it is sunny.”

COLO’s Traveler Guide

The times listed are the timetable at the time of our visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0855 (ANA719) > Odate-Noshiro 1005
Odate-Noshiro Airport 1020 (bus) > Takanosu Station 1040
Takanosu 1057 (Akita Nairiku Line) > Aniai 1156
Aniai Station 1200 (taxi) > Moriyoshi Mountain Ani Ski Resort 1220

– Ani Snow Monster

Moriyoshi Mountain Ani Ski Resort 1430 (shared taxi) > Aniai Station 1500
Aniai 1532 (Akita Nairiku Line) > Ani Matagi 1558

Overnight stay: Ani Matagi Onsen

Tips for Day 1
– I have been taking Odate-Noshiro flight that leaves Haneda Airport in the morning but it has been delayed several times in winter. I thought connection to 10:57 train from Takanosu would be tight. I had some backup plans to move from Odate-Noshiro Airport to Moriyoshi Mountain, but fortunately I was able to travel as initially planned.

Day 2

Ani Matagi 1054 (Akita Nairiku Line) > Takanosu 1220
Takanosu Station (taxi) 1220 > Odate Station 1245

Lunch: Hanazen (Chicken Rice)

Odate 1336 (JR Hanawa Line) > Kazuno Hanawa 1428
Kazuno Hanawa Station 1435 (shuttle bus) > Goshougake Onsen 1540

Overnight stay: Goshougake Onsen

Tips for Day 2
– It was difficult to move from Takanosu to Odate by train on this day. Akita Nairiku Line from Ani Matagi was not available until 10:54 after 7:19. Considering the breakfast time, the only choice was the 10:54 train. Then from Takanosu to Odate, there was only JR train that arriving Odate at 13:33 which made a 3-minute connection to JR Hanawa Line. Since both were JR lines, I could expect for a connection secured. However, considering the trip time from Kazuno Hanawa Station to Goshougake Onsen, the Hanawa Line train was definitely the one I did not want to miss. To avoid risk and to ensure time for lunch, I took another taxi on this trip.

Day 3

Goshogake Onsen 0930 (shuttle bus) > Kazuno Hanawa Station 1027
Kazuno Hanawa 1053 (JR Hanawa Line) > Higashi-Odate 1141
Odate Minamimachi 1149 > Odate Ekimae 1205

Lunch: Hanazen (Chicken Rice)

Odate 1350 (Express Tsugaru) > Takanosu 1405
Takanosu 1440 (Akita Nairiku Line) > Kakunodate 1641
Kakunodate 1718 (Komachi 40) > Omiya 2007

Tips for Day 3
– I planned to get off Hanawa Line train at Higashi-Odate and to eat Hinai Jidori chicken oyakodon, but Google Map showed that the restaurant was closed on Sundays. Not wanting to take a taxi anymore, I hopped on a local bus that would go to Odate Station at the very last minute. On the bus, I checked the restaurant’s website and found that they only opened for lunch on Sundays – Google Map was wrong. I went to Hanazen for the two days in a row. I love the place, so it was no problem at all, but I ate their chicken rice five times in three days including lunch boxes. That seemed too much even for me.

This New Year’s holiday season could be five consecutive days off starting from December 31 if I would minimize work during the holiday. It would be too long to just hang around at home.

I believe winter is the best season to visit hot springs in northern part of Japan. Last year, I was able to visit Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen. I was lucky enough to enjoy a spectacular view of the Sea of Japan at sunset. After visiting Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen, Sukayu Onsen in Aomori Prefecture came to the top of my list.

At the end of November, I began to consider travel destinations for the New Year holidays although it might be too late. I thought that Sukayu Onsen would be fully booked, but I checked anyway and found that miraculously there was only one room available for two-night stay starting on January 2.

It seemed I had no choice but to go on the trip. I made a reservation for Shinkansen on the first day tickets went on sale.

However, in mid-December, I found out that I would have to work on January 4. Even though I could work from anywhere, I was not intended to work Excel spreadsheets during the Shinkansen ride. I needed to go back home on January 3.

Theoretically I would be able to go deep into the mountains of Aomori and stay for one night only, should I really go? Even worth, January 3 was the peak time for people to return to their home. Would I be able to come back?

While worrying, I checked JR East website and miraculously found that there were empty seats on one southbound Shinkansen train. As other trains were fully booked, it seemed that an additional train was just added.

I changed my reservations for lodging and the Shinkansen. It was rare that all things to be settled at such a good timing. I decided to go.

While the hotel offered a free shuttle bus from Aomori station, I took a public bus from Shin-Aomori station. The bus ride was wonderful. The bus was an upgraded sightseeing bus, so I could enjoy my time in a spacious comfortable seat. The bus even slowed down at scenic spots.

I had an image of Sukayu Onsen being very crowded because of its famous Sennin-buro (thousand-people bathhouse). Even though the hotel was fully booked, visitors to the Onsen seemed to be relatively low, perhaps because numbers of the guests were limited in the COVID-19 days. Besides, “thousand-people” is just probably meant for big.

Late at night, while listening to the sound of snow falling from the roof every now and then, it was really nice to be soaking in the large bath almost no one was there. I wished staying in the bath all night long. There was a Shinto shrine in the bathhouse, and I made first shrine visit of New Year in the nude.

Taking advantage of the miraculous timings, it was a wonderful New Year’s celebration.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Sukayu

Simple round trip. The time listed is the timetable at the time of visit.

Day 1

Tokyo 0936 (Hayabusa 13) >> Shin-Aomori 1234
Shin-Aomori 1245 (JR bus) >> Sukayu 1405

Overnight stay: Sukayu Onsen

Day 2

Sukayu 0850 (shuttle bus) >> Aomori station 0950
Aomori 1039 (JR) >> Shin-Aomori 1044
Shin-Aomori 1104 (Hayabusa 306) >> Omiya 1348

February 11 of this year, Japan’s National Day, was a Tuesday. If I took Monday off, it would be a four-day weekend. I wished to go see the snowy scenery.

Since I visited Taiwan for the New Year’s holiday, I did not have much financial resources to go on a trip for four full days moving around. I found that winter bus tours of Oirase Gorge were available during the daytime on weekends and holidays. In addition, there were also tours for nighttime illumination. With two daytime tours and two nighttime tours, it seemed an efficient plan was made for a three-day trip.

After making all arrangements, it turned out that I was indeed a salaried employee. I had to be at my office on Monday, between Sunday and the national holiday. I had no choice but canceled my plans. I decided to plan another trip at the end of February instead. At the same time, I had some errands to be complete during February, so I decided to take care of them on February 9 and 11, when my schedule happened to be free.

On February 9, I worked like a horse and finished all the errands by midnight. As a result, February 11 became totally free. I could have stayed home and spent time lazily, but I wanted to go see the snowy landscape.

As I was looking at the weather forecast for Tohoku area on February 11, it was predicted to be sunny in the afternoon in the southern part. A few years ago, I went to Zao in Yamagata Prefecture to see the juhyo (ice monsters) and was able to see an extremely beautiful sunset view. I found out that sunset in Zao was around 5:00 p.m., so I could catch the last Shinkansen even if it was a day trip.

After making most of the plans, I checked the timetable of Zao ropeway just to be sure, but found lighting up of the juhyo was not operated daily. Without the lighting up, the ropeway service would be ended before sunset. Unfortunately lighting up would not be done on February 11, even though it was a national holiday. I almost went there for nothing but managed to avoid it.

There was no more time to bother, but when I looked at the weather forecast again, Yamagata, Miyagi, and Iwate Prefectures were forecast to be sunny in the afternoon. Since it would be sunny, I wished to go somewhere.

While returning from work on Monday, I looked Google Map and recalled that I was interested in Geibikei Gorge in Ichinoseki. It is famous for its autumn leaves, but the snowy scenery seems beautiful too. If I took Shinkansen leaving Tokyo before noon, I could arrive there when the weather would be clear. From Ichinoseki, I would need to take JR Ofunato Line, which was a local line and difficult to fit my schedule. However, there was a bus service that runs along the Ofunato Line, which made only three round trips a day. By combining use of train and bus, I was able to make an itinerary that works out nicely.

Further research made and found that Ichinoseki was famous for its rice cake. I also found a nice izakaya (Japanese-style pub) near Ichinoseki Station. I decided to leave Tokyo earlier, eat rice cakes in Ichinoseki and go to Geibikei, finally take late Shinkansen on the way back. This would give me 2.5 hours at the izakaya. Some years ago, I found an excellent izakaya in front of Shin-Yamaguchi Station, but my schedule was very tight, and I had to return to Tokyo feeling reluctant to leave. With that experience in mind, I wished to secure enough time. It was after 10:00 p.m. when all the arrangements were made. The forecast remained favorable.

On my way to Ichinoseki, the weather was fine with a clear view of Mt. Fuji even in Saitama Prefecture, but it turned cloudy around Koriyama in Fukushima Prefecture. Still, the bad weather in the morning was within my expectation. When I got off the Shinkansen at Ichinoseki, blue skies were peeking through the clouds. I walked to the rice cake restaurant.

After eating delicious rice cakes, I left the restaurant in an unexpected snowstorm. The weather forecast was updated that expected time for sunny weather would be 2 p.m. Still, according to the radar forecast, the snow would stop within 15 minutes or so. I returned to Ichinoseki Station and waited for the Ofunato Line train.

20 minutes after I left the restaurant, when the train was scheduled to depart from Ichinoseki Station, it was still snowing. Looking at the radar forecast again, it would be another 30 minutes before the snow stopped. In the end, I arrived at Geibikei without stopping snow.

The tour in Geibikei is 30-minute boat ride one way, 20-minute walk at the end, and then back on the boat again. I boarded the boat, which departed at 2:00 p.m. It was windy and snowy. In other words, it was a snowstorm. It was completely unexpected. It had been nearly two hours since I had left the restaurant in Ichinoseki just after the noon, and it still had not stopped snowing despite I had been told it was supposed to clear up in the afternoon.

It was a blizzard on that day, but Geibikei was not in a heavy snowfall area. So, it was a plus for me to see the snowy scenery of Geibikei. Well, maybe so. The fresh snow felt nice and fluffy as I walked around.

I was not interested in the guided walk, so I stayed away from the group and took photos. When it was time to board the return trip boat, the Gorge was cleared up. The light reflected to the falling snow and shimmered against the dark rocky Gorge. I did not have the skills to photograph this, but it was absolutely beautiful.

Since Geibikei Gorge had magnificent rock formations on both sides, return passengers were instructed to board on the same side of the boat as outward trip. I had a 50% chance from this perspective, but the side looking the largest rocky area was on my return trip. I was able to pass the rocky point when now-unexpected blue sky appeared for a brief moment. I disembarked the boat extremely satisfied.

I killed time in a souvenir shop and took the bus ride back to Ichinoseki. It was snowing again.

The food at the izakaya was extremely good, especially fish from Sanriku Coast. It was cold, so I drank hot sake first and then cold sake from the local brewery maybe for 4 or 5 cups. I ordered ochazuke (tea-soaked rice) for the end of the meal, but I really wanted to try miso soup of the shop. Perhaps thinking I was too drunk, I was double-checked if I was really okay with two kinds of soup, but I went ahead anyway. The ochazuke and miso soup were both delicious, but my Shinkansen time was approaching. I left the restaurant in a hurry, unexpected that two and a half hours would not be enough. I rushed into Shinkansen just in time.

I had to change Shinkansen trains at Sendai Station, so I was trying to stay awake until that point. However, once boarded on the second Shinkansen, I could get back from Sendai to Omiya in 30 seconds, and in 10 seconds from Omiya to Tokyo. When I got home and closed my eyes while taking a bath, I saw a blizzard in the jet black. It was a day of unexpectedness, but I was able to fully enjoy the winter in Tohoku even on a whim.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Geibikei Gorge

Times listed are based on timetable at the time of visit.

Tokyo 0908 > (Komachi 11) Sendai 1039 – 1050 (Yamabiko 53) > Ichinoseki 1123

Lunch: Fujisei

Ichinoseki 1246 (JR Ofunato Line) > Geibikei 1318

・Geibikei

Geibikei 1550 (Bus) > Ichinoseki 1632

Dinner: Kinokawa

Ichinoseki 2022 (Yamabiko 68) >> Sendai 2053 – 2131 (Komachi 48) > Tokyo 2304