Memories of Hakodate (Originally posted on 2024-Jul-01)

I have not been feeling well since the end of last year. At first I thought that I had entered a “bad luck cycle” that is common in my life, but things did not improve and my physical condition was not good either. The cause of all the problems seemed to be insomnia, according to my acupuncturist, which was highly likely owing to my high heart rate even while I am at rest. The results of medical checkup showed that there was no problem with the heart itself, so it must be an autonomic nervous system problem. I decided to purchase an Apple Watch and monitor my health status.

After a 4-day trip to Taiwan in February, the situation was improved. My heart rate dropped and my insomnia somewhat eased. However, the golden time was over after three weeks. Hay fever triggered another bad cycle, things were even worsening due to natural factors such as typhoon-class low air pressers coming almost every week and harsh temperature fluctuations in this spring. The insomnia worsened as my physical condition was weaken.

My acupuncturist and I share the same view that fundamental solution to my autonomic nervous system problem is quitting my job, but that simple solution will likely to lead other problems. It seems to me that an effective strategy getting better would be to go on a trip.

It was around the end of March, but I did not think I can wait until Japan’s Golden Week holidays in May. I decided to go to Hotel Keifu on the outskirts of Hakodate, which I had planned to visit in late fall. I have decided to make the trip advance. Since the purpose of this trip was self-therapy, one-night trip would be too short. After some research, I found out another hotel named Hotel Hakodate Hirome-so, also on the outskirts of Hakodate. I also found that When I stayed two-nights in a row, they would provide a shuttle service between accommodations. Since there is a favorite high-end sushi restaurant in Hakodate where I may visit at the end of the trip and I have heard that no hay fever in Hokkaido, it would be a perfect escape from reality.

Even though I omitted spring break period, there were no seats available on frequent flyer award ticket for the flight leaving Tokyo on Saturday morning. In fact, the plane itself was nearly full. Rather than having a seat in the middle of three-rows of seats at a fare close to the full amount, I decided to take the Hokkaido Shinkansen even if the ride took four and a half hours. For about the same fare, I could ride in the green car (upper class). Since I would be sleepless at night, it would be good to get a sleep while on the Shinkensen.

I bought a beer at Tokyo Station for a morning nightcap (or whatever called in English), but before I could finish it, I lost consciousness around Ueno Station, and when I opened my eyes a few seconds later, I was already in Aomori. I didn’t even notice Sendai or Morioka Stations on the way. By drinking a stale, room-temperature liquid, I passed through the Seikan Tunnel with my consciousness often losing, then arrived Hokkaido Island. With this much sleep while moving on the Shinkansen, the green car ticket would have paid for itself.

When I arrived in Hakodate, the weather was clear and the temperature was hot. It was so hot that it seemed a different city where I had been freezing in a snowstorm a few months back.

I took a streetcar from Hakodate Station to Jujigai. After a lunch at Gotoken, a favorite curry restaurant, we boarded the hotel’s shuttle. On that day, the Tsugaru Strait had a calm seascape. After arriving at the hotel, I went out to see the nearby Todohokke fisheries port and lighthouse.

I went to bed early on that night, perhaps tired from two hours of walking around, or perhaps from the good effects of the self-therapy.

The next morning, I was in bad condition. Was the effect of the self-therapy an illusion?

I went out for another walk to take some pictures. It was warm again that day. As I walked, my eyes were caught by a cedar tree with a disturbing brown color – bad sign for cedar pollen.

I guessed that the reason for my poor condition that day was hay fever. This was completely unexpected. I heard that only birch trees could cause hay fever in Hokkaido Island, but it might be a different story in southern Hokkaido. It is true that about 20 kilometers across the Tsugaru Strait from the hotel is Honshu Island. Therefore, it would not be surprising if there were some cedar trees growing in the area. Unlike the Kanto area, where pollen dispersal was just about to over, this was probably the peak of the season in southern Hokkaido.

I have hay fever only from cedar trees, not from birch trees for sure. I thought I would not have hay fever, and did not bring any medicine with me. Moreover, there was no drugstore in the neighborhood in remote area of Hakodate.

Even so, thankfully my hay fever did not get much worse, perhaps because there are fewer cedar trees in the forest, or perhaps because there are fewer air pollutants.

When I returned to Hakodate city central in the afternoon of the last day, I finally found a drugstore. I thought I would be okay to return from Hakodate without any medicine, but the last and biggest event of the trip, the dinner at high-end sushi restaurant was planned just before my return flight.

I rushed into the drug store. There was a shelf of nasal inflammation medicine, but as much as seen in the Kanto area. I wondered if the demand was rather low. Still, the medicine was the same.

I finished up my trip at the sushi restaurant without a dripping from my nose. On the return flight, there were seats available on the award ticket, I took the last flight back to Tokyo. The weather was fine during the trip, and I returned to Tokyo extremely satisfied.

As I was sitting on the express bus from Haneda Airport to Yokohama Station, my Apple Watch beeped just before the Yokohama Bay Bridge as the bus entered Yokohama City. My Apple Watch was set to sound an alarm when my heart rate exceeds 120 beats per minute at rest. By the time I arrived at Yokohama station, it had calmed down to about 100. There was no way I could sleep when I got home in that state, and my insomnia returned back.

Is a three-day trip not enough time to deal with insomnia? Or do I need to have a passport for a self-therapy trip?

It is possible that the idea of traveling as self-therapy is an illusion. However, I would like to avoid the fundamental solution to my autonomic nervous system problem, so I need to devise a different coping remedy.

In order to come up with a new strategy, I need to reexamine my life from a new perspective. In order to make a fresh start, I decided to go to travel first.

Memories of Saigon (Originally posted on 2024-Aug-26)

I have used Ho Chi Minh City Airport several times for transit, but I have only been to the city once. At that time, I checked my luggage at the airport, took a local bus to the city center and eat pho. The actual time spent outside the airport was about two hours or less. If I keep passing through Ho Chi Minh City Airport for connections, I may dislike the city without knowing what it can offer. I decided to stay one night in Ho Chi Minh City and explore the city during my visit to Vietnam this year.

As I felt during my stay in Hanoi last year, it was difficult to choose a hotel in a big city in Vietnam, perhaps because I was caught the hotel rates in Japan before surge of foreign tourist, which was too low. Of course, there are many inexpensive hotels in such large cities of Vietnam, but they could be very different one another, hard to pick right one. Moreover, I am not good at hotels with poor sanitary facilities, so it is necessary to choose hotels carefully even though this was my first overnight stay in Ho Chi Minh City.

I first tried to book a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City for my Vietnam trip, but due to my complete lack of familiarity with the area, I could not find the right balance between location, facilities, and price. After endless searching, I made a reservation at a Japanese-owned hotel near the center of the city, which was almost newly built and seemed good price.

After that, I looked for a hotel in Hue where was my main destination, but I decided only on the basis of its location and style. Hue’s Perfume River has a bridge designed by the Eiffel architect office, who built the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and this colonial hotel is located at right in front of the bridge. Moreover, even a river-view room did not seem to be that expensive. Even though there are many nearby hotels in the same price range where were built in the recent years, I came to believe that the hotel must be a good old-fashioned place.

With this in my mind, I forgot the serious research I made when I first looked for a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City. I felt that a colonial hotel with a river view would be nice choice.

Once again, I looked for a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City along its Saigon River, and found a nice hotel called Hotel Majestic Saigon. It is a luxurious and historical hotel. There are river-view rooms with balcony, but they are expensive as expected in the high-class hotel market in Ho Chi Minh City.

The style of the hotel was probably influenced by the investment at the time of construction, but I thought that the hotel’s day-to-day management is affected by the current owner’s rate setting. If building is old, it will take more time and efforts to maintain service level which is highly likely impact to their sell rate. The hotel in Hue was inexpensive for such maintenance needs, and I had a feeling a bit uneasy about it. A luxury hotel on the last day seemed not a bad option. Still, if I think calmly, a newly built Japanese-affiliated hotel would be better option.

Although I pondered for a while, I still could not come to a calm decision. In the end, I decided to change my reservation to Hotel Majestic Saigon. Even better or worse, I initially booked a non-river view room but changed it to a river view room with a balcony at the last minute. I conveniently forgot that one night stay in Ho Chi Minh City was more expensive than two nights stay in Hue. As I stayed in a good old-fashioned hotel in Ho Chi Minh City, I wished to see good old Saigon.

It turned out, the first hotel I stayed in Hue was ok. It was not as bad as I had feared, nor not that good either. I thought the old-fashioned building would shine if there are more cost spending on maintenance, even if the price was higher. In the end, hotel rates are probably influenced by market, not by the maintenance itself.

Majestic Saigon, on the other hand, was wonderful.

When I arrived the hotel, main streets around were closed for vehicular traffic and the hotel staff was waiting in line. They even had a bouquet of flowers. I assumed that high-ranked government officials would visit that night.

I initially thought to make a gesture of accepting the flowers, but I knew they would not get the joke and it would embarrass them. This is probably the first and last time I made a calm decision regarding this hotel.

Speaking of bouquets, there is a flower market in Ho Chi Minh City. I enjoy going to local markets in Vietnam, but this was my first time at a market specializing in flowers.

The next morning, I got up early and took a Grab to the flower market. Although I might be a little late from its peak time, the market was colorful. After that, I visited two old-fashioned markets surrounded by modern buildings.

Staying at a good old hotel and visiting good old markets. To be honest, I was not too interested in the modern and chaotic Ho Chi Minh City, but my stay gave me a slight remainder of Saigon as it used to be.

Memories of Hue (Originally posted on 2024-Aug-11)

It is easy to forget when making travel plan in Japan during the winter, Vietnam is hot and humid place. On the day I arrived in Hue, I was in an air-conditioned private tour vehicle, but from the next day onward, I would have to travel on my own. According to the weather forecast, thunderstorms will occur in the afternoon, so I decided to go sightseeing in the early morning when the weather was likely sunny.

However, the weather was not as forecasted.

In the next morning, I woke up a little early and found it was cloudy. Although it would have been photographically better to have clear skies, the temperature was supposed to be cooler when it was cloudy. At that point, the weather forecast still said sunshine in the morning, with thunderstorms in the afternoon. It was better to move out while it was not raining, and then if I waited a while, the weather was supposed to be improved.

I decided to go to the local market and then visit to the Royal Palace in Hue. I walked for about an hour, including the time to stroll around the market. Even though it was early in the morning and cloudy, I was already exhausted by the time I arrived at the Hue Royal Palace.

While I was looking around the Royal Palace, somehow thunderstorms broke out. I thought it was supposed to rain in the afternoon. Since I had left my hotel without an umbrella, I was forced to stay in the rain for more than an hour. I left the Royal Palace when it started to drizzle, and called a Grab at a nearby cafe to return to the hotel. Photographically, it wasn’t great time at all, but I can’t help it.

I decided to take a nap. When I woke up a little after the noon, it was sunny. This was the exact opposite of the weather forecast.

I decided to try again the Royal Palace for photographing. I did not feel like walking to the Palace again, so I called Grab again.

The sensible temperature was 43 degrees Celsius according to the weather forecast app, because of the high humidity after the rain. It must be the kind of weather that any sensible Vietnamese would not go out. Am I being an insensible stupid foreigner?

When I got to the Royal Palace, it was surprisingly crowded with Vietnamese. Perhaps it was because of the weekend, but there were many groups of people dressed in traditional court costumes having photo sessions. I was not sure anymore if I was an insensible or not, but I would likely not be called so. Or, possibly, we all were insensible.

I tried to distract by thinking of such trivial things in the middle of hot and humid Palace, I was sweating unusually. I needed to take a break somewhere before getting dehydration.

The entrance fee to the Hue Royal Palace is high, and it seems re-entry is not allowed. I visited a cafe just outside the exit of the Palace in the morning. If I go there again, I have to pay the entrance fee three times in one day. I already regretted my erroneous decision in the morning that led me to pay the admission fee twice, there would be no third time. As a result of earlier rain shelter at the Palace, I knew locations of benches and decided to take a rest in the shade.

By the way, there is a unit of “man” in Japanese, which means “ten thousand (10,000)”. Major example is “1 man yen (10,000 yen)” bank note. We always say something like three hundred man (300 x 1 man = 300 x 1,0000) yen for 3 million yen. When I put commas every three digits in usual mathematical way, they are out of alignment – i.e. 300,0000 vs 3,000,000. To be honest, I feel quite confusing from time to time. I understand 1 man (1,0000) as a sense of money, but looking at the number alone, 10,000 (or 10k) is consistent and easier to understand.

Since 1,000 Vietnamese dong is approx 6 Japanese yen, the Vietnamese dong and the Japanese yen are sensibly three or four digits different depending on how you round-up or down. To boast myself a little, I can do mental arithmetic to multiply two digits by two digits. Strictly speaking, I can handle 100 x 100 too, so I should be able say that I can handle three-digit multiplication by mental arithmetic. With this super mathematical ability, I think it is not so difficult to convert 1,000 dong into roughly 5 yen; but I have been extremely bad about it. As such, I always have poor sense of monetary value when dealing with cash in Vietnam.

Anyway, there were only a few beverage vending machines in the Hue Royal Palace, and a 500ml bottle of water costed 15,000 dong. In the city, I saw the same product was sold for about 10,000 dong. It was too late to regret my erroneous judgment leaving the hotel without water bottle.

I understood that 1.5 times of 10,000 dong is 15,000 dong, but I gave up converting 15,000 dong into Japanese yen. In any case, I thought it was a tourist-place price, but considering the third admission fee, it was probably an unavoidable choice.

I went to the vending machine, tried to put the three 5,000 dong bills. None of them was accepted, I gave up.

I walked further to a souvenir shop that had a refrigerator in front of the shop. I thought that the price of such water bottle was fixed within the Palace, but I was told that the same water was priced at 30,000 dong. I had thought the previous 15,000 dong was already tourist-price, but it was double of that. I thought the price was outrageous. I must be looked totally unconvinced, the lady at the shop explained that it was because the water was frozen.

Indeed, the water in the plastic bottle was half frozen and the water was ice-cold. According to economics textbooks, this is a high value-added business model that has taken away from commoditization. However, it does not meet my demand. Drinking water does not need to be frozen, and as long as it is drinkable, it does not have to be cold either. Economically, I saw this as downside of an oligopolistic market.

Would I regrettably accept 30,000 dong? Or, should I use the vending machine even if I may have to give up the change and end up paying 20,000 dong? I didn’t bother at all, decided to return to the vending machine immediately. It was literally a waste of time.

I looked at the vending machine carefully and found an explanation in English, which said that change would be given although it would be low-value notes. Good news. This time, I inserted a 10,000 dong bill, then the machine started working and the product came out. I did not understand what it meant. I wondered if the machine’s price setting was wrong, or if there was a user who had a problem with a refund just before me.

As for me, I ended up getting water at market price. I finally sat down on a bench and took a rest, feeling satisfied. I then counting on my fingers and estimating the price difference, I found it to be about 100 yen or less. Considering the fact that water bottle was tourist-place price at first place, the gap was probably within the margin of small errors.

After all, unit of “man” was not root cause of my problem. I am not good at banknotes that have many digits and look expensive. I guess I’m just not monetary rich in my mindset.

When I thought about it, I realized that the mental arithmetic I mentioned earlier had a few digits only, that seemed like too small numbers. I am a cheap guy.

Looking back my activities on that day, it seems the cheap guy keeps making poor judgments. I was exhausted, paid unnecessary entrance fee, and lost confidence in the extreme heat of Hue.