Memories of Vietnam (Originally posted on 2024-Jul-30)

As a salaried worker who has to work at the end and the beginning of every month regardless of holidays, New Year holidays and Japan’s Golden Week in May (GW holidays) are almost non-existent in my life for last 20 years or so although the situation has gradually changed in past few years. Even so, I have never gotten the point of making plans for GW holidays in well advance, however, I began to contemplate as May approaching.

There were times in the past when I believed I could go to Europe with four consecutive holidays using red-eye flights. As time goes by, my body is aged, airplanes can no longer fly over Russian airspace, and the value of Japanese yen continues to be weaken. After all things considered, I concluded that Southeast Asia might be the place to go during this year’s GW holidays.

Still, the schedule was rather tight. The only flights I could choose were the most expensive ones, leaving Tokyo at late evening of May 1 and returning to by another red-eye flight arriving in the early morning of May 7.

It was already too late. Both Singapore and Bangkok flights were too expensive. I then searched for flights to/from Ho Chi Minh City, which were relatively inexpensive. Indeed it was about a half the price of Singapore or Bangkok. I quickly booked the round-trip flights, and then searched for my final destination in Vietnam.

I narrowed down the search by weather trends. It seemed that Central Vietnam was the only place in the country where was not in rainy season at the time of visit. I had already been to an old town named Hoi An in Central Vietnam, but I found an another ancient city called Hue.

On May 2, I did some rather loosely works (or killing daytime) in my office, came back home to pick up my luggage, and then headed for Tokyo Haneda Airport. I did not have much luggage, so I tried to take a local bus from near my house but I missed the bus right in front of me. This bus route is not famous for reliable schedule, I left the home little late but it seemed the bus was running on time because of the good traffic conditions during the GW holiday season. I ended up walking to train station but made to catch the express bus to the airport. Still, it was a bad start for me, as I was late for schedule at the very beginning of the trip.

I was thankful to the majority of other passengers onboard who had a good start of their trips, the plane made on-time arrival to Ho Chi Minh City Airport early in the morning. I came to Vietnamese immigration checkpoint with my brain and body sleep-deprived and tired. As usual, immigration checkpoint at this airport did not seem to be functioning efficiently. Since there was no information on where to line up, I went to the end of one line, which seemed to be shorter than the others, but all lines seemed so slow anyway. I became nervous because I made separate ticketing for a connecting flight on a low-cost airline with a rather tight connection. The passenger next to me who was going to Phu Quoc Island was already in despair.

It was no big damage to me when I missed the local bus and had to walk to the station like last night, but it might be problematic if I miss the connecting flight – I just could not walk from Ho Chi Minh up to Hue as free recovery. Remembering that I messed up my own plan from the beginning, I stood in line with a gloomy feeling. Nevertheless, while I was waiting in line, immigration officers seemed showing up for work one after another, and numbers of operating immigration booths were gradually increased. As a result, I was able to pass through with a little time to spare. It would have been better for my mental health either the arrival of my flight adjusted to schedule of immigration inspectors, or the immigration inspectors came to work prior to the flight arrival.

Anyway, I was able to board a domestic flight to Hue without issues, continued on to Hue Airport. I arrived at my hotel in Hue smoothly, there was still plenty of time before check-in.

I was planning to charter a car via Grab for about 4 hours to go to sightseeing spots in the suburbs, but I could no longer charter a car from the app. I thought about requesting a normal one-way dispatch, but I was not sure if there would be a taxi available coming back to the city central. I asked the hotel staff about taxi charter, they ended up calling a travel agency and introduced me to a private tour.

I was told that the driver would be able to pick me up in 20 minutes, I signed-up for the private tour. Because of the tight connection at Ho Chi Minh City Airport and I arrived at the hotel so smoothly in Hue, I had not been able to go to an ATM after arriving in Vietnam to get local currency. Although the hotel had a bank on the 1st floor, it rather looked more of an office than a business branch for public, and there was only one ATM which was not working. I walked around the hotel and found an ATM, but even that time, I could not withdraw money due to a communication error. Remembering I missed the local bus last night, I felt gloomy again. This trip might not go well.

In the end, I couldn’t get local cash by the pickup time, so I started the tour by visiting a bank before sightseeing. The driver could speak English, but he did not seem to understand my intentions at first. I cannot complain about it – no one would request a tour without having any local cash at all.

After a while, I found a bank branch and asked the driver to stop the car. Thanks to him, I was given VIP treatment by a security guard escorting me from the parking lot to ATM. This time ATM worked fine, and I was finally able to start real sightseeing tour with peace in mind.

First, I was taken to the Khai Dinh Imperial Mausoleum. This should have done on the first day of my visit to Hue, as this was main place I came to Hue. It was a gorgeous tomb of a Vietnamese king who was greatly influenced by French culture. It was a wonderful place, I felt it was a good decision to come and see. Although it is a famous tourist spot, it is in a quite remote area and I did not see any cabs available for way back to the city. It was a good decision to come by chartered car too.

After visiting another king’s graveyard and a Buddhist temple, I returned to Hue city. For unknown reasons, I was taken by boat from the Buddhist temple back to the city. After all, it was just a substitute for a souvenir shop the tour operators might get commission or something else. The boat was surely on the river, so it was impossible to hide or escape, and their price was as same level as the airport. I would rather had a beer than mass-produced souvenir items, but supply and demand did not match. Earlier I was looking for an ATM, but now I guess I am the ATM. Still, the river breeze was cool and I didn’t get lost in the heat wave on my way back.

It was a generally successful first day of the trip.

I had gloomy feeling because I missed the first local bus, but I should have rather focused on the fact that I made to catch my flight from Tokyo then connected domestic flight as planned. If the main results are good, I should consider all are good. There is no use in worrying about unnecessary details.

Memories of Oumu (Originally posted on 2024-Oct-07)

There are many things I am somewhat unsure about.

I try to take my summer vacation off the peak in August and traveling in September. However, it is a long way from Japan’s Golden Week in May till September. What should I do during that time? I am not sure about it.

I have a bad habit of looking at Google Map late at night without knowing what to do. This has been a long time I have this habit as well as my insomnia. A few years ago, late at night, I found “Okhotsk Onsen Hotel Hinode Cape” in Oumu Town located between Wakkanai and Monbetsu in the northern part of Hokkaido.

As the name suggests, the onsen hotel stands on a hill overlooking the Sea of Okhotsk where you can expect beautiful sunrise. I had only kept the name in a deep pocket of my small brain.

A late at night in this spring, when I was viewing Google Map again, I found a very small sushi restaurant called “Sushi Restaurant Sudo” in a nearby fishing village of the hotel. Looking at the photo on Google Map, it appears to be a place owned by a chef who does quite fine work.

I had been to Wakkanai and Monbetsu before, but what I could expect in between? Somewhat unsure.

It was when I returned from another trip to sunny south Hokkaido, so I was in a good mood. I decided to start making arrangements immediately.

The trip planned was a weekend just before the summer vacation season, but there were frequent flyer free seats available on Japan Airlines from Tokyo to Memanbetsu for the outbound flight and on All Nippon Airways from Monbetsu to Tokyo for the return flight. The problem was to return rental car at Monbetsu Airport, which has only one scheduled flight a day, but Toyota Rent-a-Car has offices at both Memanbetsu and Monbetsu Airports, so I can drop off the car.

In Honshu Island, early July is the middle of rainy season. However, the rainy season front does not extend northward to Hokkaido.

When I left Tokyo, I found that the weather might not be good. The weather had been fine until the day before departure but cloudy or rainy was forecasted after the day of departure. I was not sure what it was, but it was probably a result of my daily life.

Nevertheless, when I arrived at Memanbetsu Airport, contrary to the forecast, it was sunny. I had to make the most of the sunshine. I quickly rented a car and headed for Oumu.

I have another bad habit to visit small fishing ports in the countryside, just as I keep looking at Google Maps without knowing what I would be looking at. I have no interest in fishing nor have no knowledge of the fishing industry. While driving along the Sea of Okhotsk, I stopped at few local fishing ports and took pictures. If locals saw me, I was probably looked like poachers or smugglers of some sort. There were signs that gave several examples of suspicious activities and urged to report law enforcement officials, which seemed to be quite applicable to me.

When I arrived the town of Oumu, the weather was still clear. Miraculously, the sky and sea were blue, and the breeze blowing through felt good. I was not sure what it was, but it was probably a result of my daily life.

I asked the hotel to cancel dinner for the first night, and I got really drunk at the sushi restaurant.

I was told that the chef had worked at a famous restaurant in Susukino in Sapporo for many years then returned to his hometown and running his own restaurant. The sushi was simply great. For me, “talkative Japanese chefs” were not favorite kind of people in the restaurant industry, but he was very good in this perspective too. Moreover, I was able to visit the restaurant at the best possible time, with freshly picked local sea urchins arriving during business hours.

The next morning, I woke up at 3:00 am. When I looked out the window, it was cloudy, but there was a break in the clouds, so I went out to watch the sunrise without really knowing what to expect. I was not able to see sunrise, but it was a fantastic sight.

After that, it was cloudy with some rain until the last day. From Memanbetsu to Monbetsu, it was like the countryside of Hokkaido. However, from Monbetsu to the north, I felt like the farthest reaches of the island. If it had been sunny, there would have been a lot of things to do, but with the weather so gloomy, what was there to do? I spent a day and a half wandering around by car, not really knowing what to do. I then flew back to Tokyo.

After returning home, I found out that Hokkaido had so-called “Ezo (an old name of Hokkaido) rainy season”. It does not seem to be a scientific weather term, and I could only find a vague explanation of it, but it is said to be a period of somewhat bad weather continued just before the summer season.

This was something I could somehow understand.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Oumu

All times shown are the schedule based on the time of travel.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0710 (JAL565) >> Memanbetsu 0855

– Visit fishing ports

Dinner: Sushi Restaurant Sudo

Overnight stay: Okhotsk Onsen Hotel Hinode Cape

Tips for Day 1
– There is a stylish observatory at Cape Hinode. I think it will be nice during the drift ice season.

Day 2

0345 Sunrise

Usutaibe Senjyoiwa Rocks

Tips for Day 2
– The sun rises early, perhaps because of its location north and/or east of Tokyo. It was only 4:30 a.m. when I returned to the hotel after enjoying the early morning scenery.
– I ended up sleeping about three times, and I woke-up just before noon. The weather was not good, but I decided to head north toward Wakkanai. At first, we headed for Usutaibe Senjyoiwa Rocks in Esashi Town, where we encountered the “Eve of the Okhotsk Esashi Food Festival”. The rock was closed for fireworks, but we were able to buy and eat a variety of local dishes, the town seems to have the largest catch of hairy crabs in Japan.

Day 3

Monbetsu 1300 (ANA376) >> Tokyo Haneda 1450

Tips for Day 3
– The character of Monbetsu City is an old guy named “Monta”, and he is kind of nice. I mean, he is wonderful.

Memories of Yubiso (Originally posted on 2024-Oct-24)

One evening in mid-August, I received a message from my old friend, Shinkoro. He was visiting Japan at the end of August and asked if we could meet on Sunday. He knew, without asking me, that I would have plenty of free time on a weekend only 10 days away. It is because of from our long acquaintance, I suppose, or something else.

I thought it would be an easy task just to make a reservation at our favorite sushi restaurant in downtown Tokyo for the evening, but it seemed that he had changed his mind and asked me if we go trekking or go to an onsen for one-day trip in Hakone area. As I have enough free time, I could see no good reason to refuse, but I did my best to block him from going to Hakone where I expected super crowded on a summer weekend.

I happened to read a book about Mt. Tanigawa back then, I came up an ambitious schedule that included a ropeway ride on the Mt. Tanigawa and trekking at Tenjin Pass, then renting an electric bike to see Ichinokurasawa Valley. As a result, trip became too tight for one day and we decided to stay overnight in the Minakami area.

Chichibu in Saitama Prefecture is upstream area of the Arakawa River, which I had always disliked due to proximity from Tokyo, but Mt. Tanigawa is in Gunma Prefecture and on the Tone River although it is still in the Kanto region. If you go to the headwaters of the Tone River, you will feel as if you have been on a real trip.

However, the problem will be Minakami area. In my opinion, Minakami is in the same league as Kinugawa area as a hot spring resort that I dislike without even trying. I am not fun of so-called “big-box” hot spring hotels, and I have no taste for visiting ruins from the bubble era.

I made some research and found that there is a hot spring called Yubiso deep in Minakami area, which was a remote hot spring resort even in its heyday. It was on the bus route from Joetsu Shinkansen’s Jomo Kogen Station to the Mt. Tanigawa Ropeway, so it seemed like a not bad option.

On the same day when Shinkoro contacted, I looked for a hot spring hotel in Yubiso, and by the next morning I had completed our reservation. I thought I had done a pretty good job for a plan I had made in one night, but that was not the hard part.

The problem was the weather. It is true that the weather in the mountains is changeable, and there are many thunderstorms in the northern Kanto region in summer, but this year it was particularly bad. Moreover, as the departure date approached, the weather forecast became unstable, perhaps because the season was turning to autumn. Even worse, a large typhoon was brewing over the Pacific Ocean, creating moist air and making the weather further unstable.

It would be undesirable if rained, especially Shinkoro had gone to the trouble of bringing trekking shoes to Japan. I kept looking at the weather forecast quite frantically, hoping to find somewhere sunny even if we had to pay a cancellation fee. I further tried looking outside of the Kanto region, but even with the nationwide forecast as of two days before, only Tokyo and Kanagawa Prefecture looked like they would definitely be sunny. The word “Hakone” came to mind, but I decided not to pick up any potential problems.

We cut our plans for the first day, changed only the designated bullet train ticket for the outward journey. We met together at Tokyo Station in the heat of the sunny summer day, and set off for Mt. Tanigawa. It was already overcast at Omiya on the way, and a thunderstorm broke out around Kumagaya.

I started to have a bad feeling. As expected, the lights in the train went out in the tunnel past Takasaki, and the Shinkansen came to an emergency stop. The following train was reported to have suffered a power failure, and operation resumed after a simple vehicle inspection.

In the end, the train arrived at Jomo Kogen Station about 5 minutes late. From there, the bus to Yubiso Onsen was a 7-minute connection at the scheduled time. We happened to be on the train car in front of the stairs to ticket gates, so we managed to run to the bus 20 seconds before departure.

I began to have a good feeling about the future. It must be the potential of Shinkoro, who has a mind of “a glass of half full of water” instead of thinking as “a glass of half empty water” like me.

Still, it was raining really heavy while we were on the bus, but after a while we arrived at the inn, it started to drizzle lightly. We went out for a walk outside. Yubiso may have been a remote hot spring resort in the past, but now it is a deserted village deep in the mountains with a few hot spring inns.

The small village was wet from the rain, creating an extremely atmospheric scene. After walking for a while, we came across a bus stop that could appeared in a famous animated film, and a shrine in a dense forest that looked like it could have appeared in a film by the same production company. Other in the village was the sound from the clear stream.

We stayed at an inn called “Nakaya” where the open-air bath was reserved for 40 minutes for private use. I wondered if it would be a good idea to reserve the private bath for two old men, but aside from that, the rain stopped just before we took the bath, and the sunset started after a while.

I have a bad habit of going out to take pictures right before dinner time. I said I would be back in five minutes but ended up spending about 15 minutes taking pictures. The deep valley was covered with reddish color clouds, and the scenery was absolutely fantastic.

By the time I returned to our room, the ice-filled aperitif was already running thin, but my buddy had ordered a beer for me. The food at this inn was excellent. While the food was rather typical course meal at this kind of onsen inn, I thought the amount of care that had gone into the western-style dishes was great. This is probably the result of the chef’s deep love for soups and sauces. I would have thought that a casual French course from start to finish would have been fine.

The weather forecast for the second day was not promising either. If it rained from the morning, I thought we would return to Tokyo early, but it was forecasted to start raining in the afternoon. We decided to limit our schedule in the morning, and to determine to go to Tenjin Pass or Ichinokurazawa Valley, depending on the weather conditions.

When we took the bus to the ropeway station, it was cloudy as predicted, but the lady at the ropeway ticket counter told us that there was blue sky over the Gunma Prefecture side.

We decided to take the ropeway. Looking at the Mt. Tanigawa from Tenjin Pass, the valley was covered with deep clouds, and we would have seen nothing if we had continued on to Ichinokurasawa Valley. Even though it was the end of summer, flowers were blooming in many places at Tenjin Pass, and we had an enjoyable trek.

I thought the trip could be a simple trip, just two old men going to a modest hot spring resort and back. It turned out to be an extremely enjoyable trip. I guess it is important to have a mindset of “a glass of water is half full”.

Note: Please refer here for our itinerary.