Due to declaration of emergency in Hokkaido for COVID-19, I had to give up my June visit to Rebun Island. At the time, I thought it was a reasonable decision made. However, I am one of those people who easily get tempted when it comes to travel desires.
I could not give up the beautiful scenery of the remote island, alpine flowers, and Rebun Island specialty, the Bafun sea urchin.
Even though I had visited Kushiro as an alternative to Rebun Island in June, I checked 10-day weather forecast for Rebun Island every day. After the emergency declaration was lifted, there was a series of sunny marks on a weekend in early July.
I had been wished to visit Rebun Island for more than 10 years. Considering the lack of tourists owing COVID-19, this year might be my first and last chance to visit Rebun Island when there might still be some alpine flowers left. After a short deliberation, or I should say without much of thoughts, I decided to make reservations to visit the Island. It was only one week before departure.
I flew from Tokyo Haneda to Wakkanai using All Nippon Airways (ANA) credit points. Due to connection problems, my return route had to be via Wakkanai and Sapporo using JR train. Nevertheless, I was still able to book a discount ticket on the JR limited express from Wakkanai to Sapporo, and I was able to get a frequent flyer award ticket for a flight from Sapporo Shin-Chitose back to Tokyo Haneda. I had just enough time to spare at work and could take 1.5 days off.
The gods of Rebun Island might be telling me to come to the Island.
After all other reservations were completed, the weather forecast turned out to be predominantly cloudy at the last minute. It was not going to rain, so there would be no problem to see the alpine flowers. Bafun sea urchins were in season although they could be affected by the weather.
On the first day, it was cloudy when I arrived Wakkanai. On the bus from the airport to the ferry terminal, an old man sitting next to me was reading a guidebook, which made me a little nervous. I had already planned the routes to/from Rebun Island before June although the trip had to be canceled, but since this July trip was so rushed for all arrangements, I had not made any research on the Island itself.
Fortunately, I was given a booklet made by the ferry company and a handmade guide by students of Funadomari Elementary School on Rebun Island. With these, I should be able to get around the Island.
During the voyage to Rebun Island, Rishiri Fuji on Rishiri Island was visible from the ferry. There were clouds and I could barely see the top of the mountain. This might not be a good start. I arrived at Rebun Island in the cloudy evening.
The sunrise was very early at 3:00 a.m., and I checked the sunrise time. It was cloudy and I felt gloomy. According to the weather forecast at this point, the second day would be cloudy, and the third day would be sunny.
I got up again in time for breakfast, and my stay on Rebun Island practically started. First, I went out to rent a car. The sky was covered with thick clouds.
Putting the beautiful island scenery in the clouds, I headed out to see the alpine flowers. After walking along the trekking trail for a while, the fog started to lift. Behind it, I could see blue sky.
As I waited for a while, it cleared up.
While I was taking pictures of alpine flowers on the trekking trail, I could see the west coast of Rebun Island. It was just spectacular view.
I returned to my car and decided to go around the Island. I already had ideas of where I wished to see, so I decided to skip lunch and drove around the Island before the clouds might come back. Most of the places I wished to visit were on the west side of the Island, and the weather was generally clear. There were still a lot of fresh greenery and flowers even in July. It was wonderful.
On the other hand, the east side of the island had a lot of clouds in the afternoon. There were several places on the east coast where Rishiri Island could be seen over the ocean, but its Rishiri Fuji was in the clouds again on this day.
In the evening, the east coast clouds were finally lifted and I could finally see the Rishiri Fuji. It was beautiful in red sunshine.
There was no end what I wished to see on Rebun Island, but I was very satisfied on the second day alone considering limited time available. Beer tastes good at night like this.
The third day was cloudy in the morning. Cape Sukai (Sukai-misaki) was the most impressive point on the Island to me, I decided to visit there again. It was another sunny day on the west coast, although with more clouds than previous day. I had done enough photography, so I gazed at the scenery.
Before the noon, I returned the rental car. The weather on the east side of the Island seemed getting even worse. Finally, at the ferry terminal, I toasted with a bowl of rice topped with Bafun sea urchin and a beer.
The return ferry made a stop at Rishiri Island. I had hoped to see the Rishiri Fuji up close, but it was in the clouds again.
The weather on Rebun Island was not exactly as predicted, but I was able to come to the Island at miraculous timing. It was probably a good thing that I did not give up coming to the Island, looked for an opportunity, and took the next-best chance in July.
The only regret was that I missed eating kelp ice cream that was recommended by the students of Funadomari Elementary School. I bought some kelps picked by Rebun fishermen, so chewing a piece of them while eating an ice cream could a good substitute.
After all, the gods of Rebun Island told me to come to the island.
