COLO’s Traveler’s Guide: Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Times listed are the timetables at the time of visit.

Day 0

Tokyo Haneda 2140 (All Nippon Airways ANA203) – Frankfurt 0520+

Day 1

Frankfurt 1025 (Croatia Airlines OU419) – Dubrovnik 1210

Overnight stay: Ragusa City Walls Apartments

Tips for Day 1
– This was my second time in Dubrovnik, but hotel prices were skyrocketing, so I decided to stay at a rental apartment near the Old Town. It was quite convenient location near airport bus stop. There seemed to be management companies specializing such rental apartments, and the rooms were well maintained.
– The restaurant for dinner that night was a Michelin-listed place, which I dare not mention. Modern Croatian cuisine has not been well with me since my first visit. To me, it looks fancy and expensive, but it lacks subtlety.

Day 2

Full-day tour of Kravica Waterfalls, Mostar, and Pochiteli

Lunch: Restoran Kaldrma

Dinner: Konoba Dubrava

Tips for Day 2
– I had dinner was at a traditional Croatian restaurant. It was a kind of steamed dish in an iron pot. It was simple yet exquisitely seasoned. Unlike the restaurant the day before, I was able to enjoy local food, wine and liquor. The only drawback was that I had to take a cab from the old town, but this was not a big problem in Dubrovnik because Uber was available.

Day 3

– Sunny day in Dubrovnik

Lunch: Sandvich Bar

Dubrovnik 1730 (bus) – Kotor 1950 (actually arrived around 2100)

Dinner: Atrium Restaurant

Overnight stay: Apartments Casa del Sol Jovana

Tips for Day 3
– The weather forecast turned out to be wrong and it was sunny from the morning. I ended up visiting Walls of Dubrovnik for three times in this trip. Twice was just stupid but three times were indeed fool…
– I had a lunch was at a sandwich shop in front of the Hilton Hotel. Their burger was excellent, and I had gone there every day during my first visit to Dubrovnik. I was worried because it was a small eatery in a tourist town, but I was glad to see that the shop was still there after the COVID-19.
– I took the bus to Kotor, Montenegro. It is safe to book tickets online, and luggage storage is extra fee.
– The Old Town of Kotor is a small town with a few hotels, but there are many rental apartments. The first place I booked asked me to pay in advance via money transfer right after booking, so I decided to cancel the reservation. Although pre-payment itself was not a problem to me, I felt that direct remittance was too risky. I looked for a place where I could pay via hotel reservation website.

Day 4

– Kotor

Dinner: Konoba Scala Santa

Tips for Day 4
– Kotor is a small town, but it is crowded because of the cruise ships. If possible, it is better to stay overnight and take advantage of the early morning and evening hours when the town is quiet.
– If you stay at a private accommodation in Kotor, you will need to bring your passport and pay the accommodation tax within 48 hours of your arrival.

Day 5

– Kotor

Dinner: La Catedral Pasta Bar

Tips for Day 5
– The mountain road was too steep.

Day 6

Kotor 0300 (airport private shuttle) – Podgorica Airport 0430

Podgorica 0700 (Austrian Airlines OS730) – Vienna 0820
Vienna 1125 (All Nippon Airways ANA206) – Haneda 0655+

Tips for Day 6
– Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro, was said to be the least interesting capital city in Europe. I thought it would be a good idea to have an extra day in Kotor. A cab from Kotor would cost about 100 euros. It was a tough to get up at 2:30 a.m., but I thought a reasonable option considering time and hotel fees.
– The driver of airport shuttle became friendly after he found I had visited Montenegro twice, and asked for some Japanese yen bills. 10 euros was exchanged for a new 1,000 yen bill of Tomisaburo Kitasato and an old 1,000 yen bill of Soseki Natsume. I was too cheap that I didn’t tip the whole amount…
– I started to drink beer at Vienna airport from 8:00 am, drunken at 10:30 am, thanks to a nice guy at beer pub near ANA boarding gate who gave me a brief introduction of Austrian beer.

COLO’s Traveler Guide Kumano (Originally posted on 2022-Sep-04)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0725 (Japan Airlines JAL213) >> Nanki-Shirahama 0840

Nanki-Shirahama Airport 0928 (bus) >> Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine 1150
Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine 1200 (bus) >> Hashinmon-oji 1215

Kumano Kodo Trail 7.5km
Kumano Hongu Taisha Shraine

Kumano Hongu Shrine 1505 (bus) >> Yunomine Onsen 1529

Overnight stay: Ryokan Adumaya

Tips for Day 1
– The bus from the Airport to Shingu via Kumano Hongu Shrine can be partially used as a local bus on its way. It seems to provide efficient transportation service even with a small number of passengers.

Day 2

Yunomine Onsen 0831 (bus) >> Shingu Station 0937
Shingu 0942 (JR train) >> Nachi 0959
Nachi Station 1033 (bus) >> Daimonzaka 1044

Kumano Kodo Trail 2.7km
Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine

Mt. Nachi-san or Daimonzaka 1342 (bus) >> Kii-Katsuura Station 1408

Overnight stay: Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima

Dinner: bodai

Tips for Day 2
– Since my Day 2 sector of Kumano Kodo is relatively short, it may be good to walk as round-trip if time allows. Going up Kumano Kodo from Daimonzaka to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine & Nachi-no-otaki (waterfall) and going down Kumano Kodo to Daimonzaka.
– I stayed at “Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima” in Kii-Katsuura. The hotel was located on an island near Kii-Katsuura station and reached by boat. This place was wonderful. I booked no-meal plan, but it was no problem since Kii-Katsuura, a fishing town, seemed to have many restaurants and bars.

Day 3

Kii-Katsuura 0855 (Nanki 4) >> Nagoya 1241-1406 (Nozomi 364) >> Shin-Yokohama 1526

Tips for Day 3
– I could stop at Ise Jingu Shrine on my way back. It was too late to notice it when I waited Shinkansen at Nagoya Station.

Memories of Kumano Kodo Trails (Originally posted on 2022-Aug-23)

Since the beginning of June, news media said that Japanese government considered subsidy program to expand domestic travel. I thought it was a good economic stimulation program, but for me, it could be obstacle for my weekend trips as all airplanes, trains, hotels would likely be clouded. I had decided to make a last-minute twist to find destinations before the subsidy program began.

Since I had set my plan in June, the rainy season would be the biggest concern. While Okinawa would be out of the rainy season by late June, Hokkaido also seemed to be nice choice as no rainy season there.

I was tempted to visit Rebun Island one more time, but last year’s stay was nearly perfect. I did not think I would be able to surpass that, so I decided to pass. It might be a little early for lavender season, but I would like to visit Biei and Furano for typical Hokkaido farming scenery. The gateway is Asahikawa Airport, and there were some seats available on frequent flyer award ticket for round trip.

However, Hokkaido is said to have something called Ezo rainy season. Although I had been watching the weather forecast every day, there was no chance of sunshine in the forecast during the period I planned to visit. I was not sure if it would be a good idea to go to Hokkaido farmlands while it could be rained all the time. At a late night before few days prior to the departure, I decided to cancel the trip.

It was in the middle of rainy season south of Honshu. I had taken a day off from work, but it might be a good idea to work on that day if there were rains everywhere in Japan.

No way. I was not a such kind of guy, so I did my best to find a place where would not be rain. As expected in the last minute, airline tickets to Okinawa were expensive, and the hotels on Taketomi Island, where I had wanted to visit, were fully booked. The only other destinations that looked promising weather were the Izu Islands and the Kii Peninsula.

All Nippon Airways (ANA) had a flight from Tokyo Haneda to Hachijojima of Ize Island, and there were seats available for the award tickets. I was somewhat tempted to go to Hachijojima, but the accommodations where looked good were already fully booked. I had to give up the idea.

Last year, I visited Koyasan (Mt. Koya), which was my only stay in Wakayama Prefecture. It would be nice to know Wakayama more. I decided to visit the Kumano Kodo Trails on the Kii Peninsula, which also had been in my mind for some time. I decided to fly to Nanki-Shirahama Airport by Japan Airlines in the morning of the first day. Then I would take trains on the return trip, which would be easily rescheduled depending on the weather.

I was curious about the Kumano area because I often went to a yakitori restaurant who offered chicken produced in Kumano area called Kumano Jidori. At the same time, I knew nothing more about Kumano other than the chicken. I hurriedly researched Kumano almost all night.

When I arrived at Tokyo Haneda Airport early in the morning, announcements were made that flights to Hokkaido could be interrupted due to bad weather. While thinking that I might make a right choice, TV news forecasted clear skies for Asahikawa area on the next day and the day after. It was too huge gaps between the airport announcement and TV forecast. Will the weather in Hokkaido improve dramatically from now on? The possibility of making wrong choice flashed through my mind.

When I arrived at Nanki-Shirahama Airport, it was a full-blown overcast day, even more clouds than Tokyo. Until yesterday, weather forecast had said clear skies expected. I might have made the wrong choice. The phrase, “too much scheming could lead to his downfall,” came to my mind.

From the airport, I took a bus to Kumano Hongu Shrine. This was a direct bus service, but the Kii Peninsula was much larger than I imagined and it took a long time to get there. I fell asleep on the way there, and when I woke up it was raining heavily. The weather in the Kii Peninsula seemed to be deteriorating dramatically. I must have made a wrong choice.

In the end, by the time I arrived at Kumano Hongu Shrine, the rain had stopped, but the atmospheric conditions were unstable, periodical sunny and rain going by. Nevertheless, I started walking along the Kumano Kodo Trails.

I then realized that I had recently visited the Kunisaki Peninsula and Hagurosan Shrine in Dewa, and two places had temples and shrines deep in the mountains. In fact, there were not much of differences in photographically besides they were cloudy in two places. Once again, the phrase “too much scheming could lead to his downfall” came to mind.

Nevertheless, I visited two Kumano Kodo Trails on two days. The weather was cloudy or light rain. They were all flat gray in photos. I must have made a wrong choice.

In the evening of the second day, the sun finally appeared. My heart also cleared somewhat.

Day 3 was originally forecast to be cloudy, so I decided to take an early train back to Tokyo. Still, I did not collect the tickets that I had reserved though website, hoping for a last-minute sunshine.

Early in the morning of the last day, I was awakened by a tremendous roar of thunder. It was raining utterly hard. I decided to leave Kumano as planned.

On the way back from Kumano, I took the JR limited express Namki to Nagoya, which took about 4 hours, and then transferred to the Shinkansen. After returning home in a daze feeling, I checked the weather in Asahikawa and found that it had rained heavily on the first day, then clear skies on the second and third days. I had completely made the wrong choice.

I learned that the schemer surely had fallen for his scheming.