Memories of Murodo (Originally posted on 2023-Dec-18)

This summer was unusually hot probably due to El Nino. When I was a child, it was on news when maximum temperature exceeded 30 degrees Celsius in Tokyo, but it is not unusual even the temperature exceeds 35 degrees Celsius in these days.

Despite such climate, it is probably not a good idea to go up north for a summer vacation. I heard that it was hot even in Hokkaido Island this year. Maybe I could be in cold weather in North Pole. Alternatively, it would probably be able to find a cooler place in Siberia, but the current situation in Russia makes it difficult. I need to find somewhere realistic.

On the other hand, I have heard that it was cool at climbing entrance of Mt. Fuji even in this summer. Of course, this is not in the Arctic or Siberia, but in just outside of the Kanto area, Shizuoka and Yamanashi Prefectures. There are cooler places in Japan if you look for them. It is likely cooler going up in three-dimensionally rather than going northward in two-dimensionally.

In the meantime, I happened to get a reservation at a hotel in Murodo on the Tateyama Alpine Route. The altitude is around 2,450 meters, which is about as same as the climbing entrance of Mt. Fuji, so it should be cool weather in Murodo.

During the peak season, the hotel in Murodo is difficult to book and the schedule cannot be changed at last minute. Even if the weather is not good, you cannot go wrong if you think it as a summer getaway.

On departure day, it was the time when a typhoon was approaching Kanto area. I booked the first Hokuriku Shinkansen train so that I could leave before the typhoon reached, but it was not a clear day even if I went across mountains further to Sea of Japan side of the country. It was good that it did not heavily rain though.

Murodo was cold due to the strong wind blowing from the Nagano Prefecture. I walked around in the light rain until check-in time. After that, I snuggled under a blanket in my room. Not enough from a photographic point of view, but it was supposed to be perfect as a heat retreat.

As a photographer and blogger, I got up before sunrise in the next morning. However, Mt. Tateyama was in the clouds. The night before, I had three glasses of whiskey at the hotel bar, and I had hungover, perhaps because the high altitude affects the circulation of alcohol in my system. Waking up early does not do any good to me. I immediately returned to bed.

I woke up again before the noon. It was still cloudy, but there was no point in staying in my room. I went for a walk.

As it is said “every dog has its day,” I was able to see a family of rock ptarmigan. This alone was worth the trip. Moreover, the weather started to improve in the afternoon. The next morning looked promising. Since I am not a dog, I went to bed without going to the bar to ensure I could wake up early in the next morning.

Indeed, it was clear and sunny. I took my camera and walked to the place I had spotted the day before. I was able to enjoy quite a nice sunrise.

Having enjoyed Murodo, I decided to go down the mountain early. On the way down, I got off the bus at Midagahara for trekking. I then returned to Toyama Station in the early afternoon.

The altitude of Toyama Station is about 7 meters above sea level. With altitude differences of 2,440 meters, the temperature should have been around 14.5 degrees Celsius higher, and it was actually 32 degrees Celsius in Toyama City.

As expected, it was not much different from the heat of Tokyo although I went up north. I walked around in Toyama City in the extreme heat until time for evening sushi restaurant reservation.

I learned that the key to avoiding the heat was the altitude. However, I spoiled my body by escaping from the heat, and I began to suffer from summer fatigue from the day after I returned home. It seemed that effects from extreme heat I had endured in all summer came at once, and the malaise continued for more than a month, until mid-October.

I am unaccustomed to extreme heat and I am unaccustomed to heat retreat. It is difficult for a middle-aged man to live comfortably in summer.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Central Hokkaido (Originally posted on 2024-Mar-17)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0900 (Japan Airlines JAL507) >> Sapporo New Chitose 1030
New Chitose Airport 1106 (Rapid Express Airport 111) >> Otaru 1222

Lunch: LeTAO

Otaru Canal

Dinner: Ise Sushi

Bars: Nikka Bar Rita, Bar HATTA, BOTA

Overnight stay: Hotel Nord

Tips for the 1st day
– We went to the Rita Bar before sushi restaurant, and started with Nikka whisky with water. Although I usually prefer single malt, Super Nikka is surprisingly tasty with water or highball. After the dinner, tried few glasses of old Nikka single malt whiskies at Bar HATTA and BOTA.

Day 2

Otaru Station 0900 (local bus) >> Yoichi Station 0935

Nikka Yoichi Distillery

Yoichi 1231 (JR Train) >> Otaru 1255
Otaru 1319 (JR Train) >> Naebo 1409

Sapporo Beer Garden

Dinner: Shikisai

Sapporo 1924 (Express Airport 194) >> New Chitose Airport 2003
Sapporo New Chitose 2105 (Japan Airlines JAL 528) >> Tokyo Haneda 2245

Tips for Dat 2
– You can take both train and bus between Otaru and Yoichi depending on schedule availability, bus stops are in front of stations. The distillery is a walking distance from Yoichi Station.
– We took the Sapporo City Tram and went to “Shikisai”, which we had heard about from a person living in Sapporo. It is a popular izakaya (Japanese style pub) among locals. It is interesting because there are many local fish that we have never heard of.

Memories of Otaru (Originally posted on 2024-Mar-03)

As my friends often tease me, my life is full of routine. In fact, I try to live my daily life with a few limited restaurants and bars, rarely try new places. Part of this is because I wish to avoid to make erroneous choices selecting where I eat or drink, but I would rather have places where I feel comfortable. I do not want to bother the restaurant chefs, but I hope them to make slight adjustments to the dishes because I have many dislikes in terms of food ingredients. I also wish to leave them to decide brand of whisky or sake to because it is too much trouble for me.

As for the bars, I visit three bars every week, one each by day (Thursday, Friday, and Saturday). One of the bartenders, who I visit on Saturdays (tentative name: Saturday bartender), was going to visit Nikka Yoichi Distillery, so he would close the bar on Saturday only once in last November.

Visit days in a week are fixed only in my mind, there are no legal or physical restrictions except all three are closed on Sundays. Therefore, it is possible, for example, to swap the bar I go on Friday and on Saturday for one particular week.

However, human beings get caught up in habits. Just because we can theoretically do something about a problem, it does not mean that we actually do it. One usual case is, even though you know that eating breakfast is good for your health, you do not (or cannot) get up even a few minutes early. You may not take the underlying problem seriously, so you may get carried away by the habit.

Similarly, it is difficult for me to visit my Saturday bar on Friday. It could be because the trains are more crowded on Friday than on Saturday, or because there is a chance that more regular customers I know visiting the bar on Saturday, but no concrete reasons. Even though it would be easy to take an action, I am bound by my habit and hard to make even a minor change.

Still, the bar will be closed on a Saturday in November. I can physically go in front of the bar, but its door will be closed, so I have to do something about it although I am now a slave of my habit.

Then, on one of Saturdays, the Saturday bartender asked me if I knew any restaurants in Otaru, nearby city of the distillery. I had visited Yoichi Distillery a few years ago and liked one sushi restaurant in Otaru.

The rest was just a usual story in a bar. As we talked about airline tickets and hotel arrangements, we ended up getting drunk and I said I was going to Otaru and joining him from his 2nd day.

In general, such travel plans are unmaterialized. It is a typical case that just because you can do something theoretically, it does not mean you actually do it.

Yet, I try to take travel seriously. It happened that there were seats available on frequent flyer award ticket from Tokyo Haneda to Sapporo Shin-Chitose and back. If out-of-pocket expense is one-night hotel stay only, I can take it seriously without being so serious.

We have heard that there are several good bars in Otaru, and we planned to visit three if possible. We would surely have sake at the sushi restaurant, so we would have four drinking places in total. As a middle-aged man whose ability to get alcohol out from my system is weaken as getting older, this is theoretically possible, but it is extremely ambitious.

The plan was that we would meet at the first bar in the evening for an aperitif, before going to the sushi restaurant. I was free until then, so I would arrive Otaru by noon on Saturday, and have a piece of cheesecake at LeTAO where is famous for it. If the weather is nice, I would love to see the Otaru Canal and Otaru Port.

I headed for Otaru without much to think, but it was already winter in Hokkaido. With the first strong chill came for the season, the first snow was falling it Sapporo/Otaru area on that day. The temperature was 2 degrees Celsius at the time of arrival and the wind speed was 6 meters per second, effective temperature must have been below zero. Contrary, a few days back, Kanto area had first November “summer day (daytime temperature above 25 degrees Celsius)” in last 44 years.

The unexpected weather did not discourage me. I had a lunch and cake at LeTAO, strolled along the Otaru Canal and Otaru Port despite the freezing cold weather, and enjoyed Otaru night by drinking at one sushi restaurant and three bars all as initially planned.

Putting all other things aside, I can take a travel seriously. When food or drinking plans are added, it is further intense. After all, just because something can be done theoretically, whether or not an action is actually taken depends on one’s perception to the fundamental issues. I am a type of person who try something only what/when I like to do.

Looking back to it, I was told something similar when I was in elementary school. I have not changed in 40 years owing my perception to my own underlying problem.