COLO’s Traveler Guide: Hiroshima (Originally posted on 2023-Oct-6)

Day 0

Itsukushima Shrine
Rokai Boat

Hiroshima (Shinkansen) >> Fukuyama

Fukuyama Station (Tomo Railway Bus) >> Tomo Port

Tomonoura (Tomo Port)

Tomo Port (Tomo Railway Bus) >> Fukuyama Station

– Bar Akatsuki

Tips for Day 0
– I found a small boat called Rokai Boat (Rokai Fune) at Itsukushima Shrine. I passed through the torii gate on the boat and paid respect to the shrine on the sea. This seems to be very traditional way of visit this shrine. The boat service is operated only when weather is good at high tide, mainly on weekends. It was fortunate that I can ride it.

Day 1

Fukuyama (Tomo Railway Bus) >> Tomo Port

Tomo no Kumo
Houmeishu (Local liquor)
Amo Chinmi

Dinner: Yiki-sanchi

Overnight stay: Tomonekoan

Tips for Day 1
– Take a walk in Tomonoura old town. I found a store that serves delicious sweets.
– I went to Amo Chinmi to buy fish cakes and had a chance to make hand-rolling fish cake by myself, which was then freshly baked.
– Tomonoura area has traditional liqueur called Houmeishu. Many shops are still in old-style buildings, nice visit.
– I stayed at an inn that had been converted from an old private house.

Day 2

Tomonoura 1100 (Setouchi Cruising) >> Onomichi 1200

Lunch: Yasuhiro Sushi

Onomichi 1428 (etSETOra train) >> Hiroshima 1735

Dinner: Teppan-ya (Okonomiyaki – Hiroshima-style pancake)

Hiroshima 2001 (Nozomi64) >> Shin-Yokohama 2327

Tips for Day 2
– Took a boat from Tomonoura to Onomichi, operated only on weekends and holidays. The boat passed channel along small islands, nice view of Seto Island Sea. I wished it was a sunny day.
– After eating okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, returned home by the last Shinkansen but Hiroshima was indeed far away. There were many people coming in and out the car at Shin-Kobe, Shin-Osaka, and Nagoya stations that I could not sleep even though I was drunk. Taking a flight could be a good idea but Hiroshima Airport is located a bit too far from the city.

Memories of Hiroshima (Originally posted on 2023-Sep-24)

Back in June, I had to visit Hiroshima Prefecture. It was during the rainy season, so I was not fully excited, but it was fixed. Still, I made a small room to adjust my itinerary according to the weather.

There is an old town called Tomonoura in Fukuyama City, east side of Hiroshima, where I had been interested in visiting. It is a small old port town with an old lighthouse.

I decided to make an overnight stay at Tomonoura, take a boat to Onomichi, and from there take a scenic train on the Kure Line along Seto Inland Sea to Hiroshima Station. Although it was initially a short weekend trip only from Saturday to Sunday, I would be able to enjoy much of Seto Inland Sea if the weather is good.

As usual, I looked at the weekly weather forecast many times and found that the weather for Friday was supposed to be good but the weather for the weekend might not. I considered to forcefully change the original plan and started with a visit to Itsukushima Shrine in the afternoon on Friday.

Except for a short visit to a bar in Onomichi about 20 years ago on my way to Shikoku Island, this was my first visit to Hiroshima Prefecture in about 40 years. I remember seeing the Atomic Bomb Museum and Itsukushima Shrine and looked forward to riding “Blue Train,” a sleeper train, back to Tokyo when I was in elementary school. Even after digging up those memories, I have a few recollections, including the oddly long ride on the streetcar from Miyajima-guchi to Hiroshima City.

Anyway, for this time, I found that high tide at Hiroshima Port would be around 2:00 p.m. on the Friday. This was matched to the time of my visit. With expected sunny weather and high tide, besides I was in Hiroshima Prefecture anyway, I decided to go to Itsukushima Shrine.

The Itsukushima Island was full of tourists. When I looked the famous torii gate on the Sea, there were many buildings behind, on the other side of the Inland Sea. Not sure what I really expected, but Itsukushima Shrine was in a suburb of Hiroshima, which was a big city. Still, the view of the large torii gate on the sea was spectacular, and the background buildings could be removed by Photoshop.

As I was sitting on a bench and looking the torii gate, I imagined that my family had not checked the tidal condition when I first visited here. It might be difficult to completely forget the beautiful scenery at high tide. On the other hand, I heard that I could walk to the torii gate when the tide is low, which would have left me with some strong memories. From the fact that I do not remember any at all, I must have come here at a halfway time. As a result, all I recall in Hiroshima were that horrified memory at the Atomic Bomb Museum and long streetcar ride, but nothing on Itsukushima Shrine.

With these thoughts in mind, I paid my respects at Itsukushima Shrine and took pictures and then headed to Tomonoura.

It was cloudy in the early evening at Tomonoura but cleared up just before sunset. The entire sky turned pink just after sunset and gradually became dark blue. Because it was on a weekday, there was no tourist, locals do not seem to care. I enjoyed very colorful yet quiet evening.

I took a bus back to Fukuyama City center and visited to an old bar “Akatsuki”, which I had visited its Onomichi branch about 20 years ago. I recalled they had operated two bars back then. I have heard that the Onomichi branch was closed few years ago, but the Fukuyama branch was still in business. To my surprise, the bartender was 80 years old running his bar day-by-day.

It was a very satisfying day.

The next day was cloudy as predicted, and I continued my trip as planned. I drank sake while eating sushi lunch in Onomichi, drank cocktails on a scenic train which had a bar, and ate okonomiyaki with whisky highball in Hiroshima City. They were what I could not been achieved as an elementary school student. 40 years are long time. Some of years may have been wasted in my life, but I am glad to become an old man.

Although there are no Blue Trains anymore, I was able to fully enjoy Hiroshima Prefecture after the 40 years.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Tateyama (Originally posted on 2023-Dec-31)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo 0616 (Shinkansen Kagayaki 501) >> Toyama 0823

Tateyama Alpine Route

Dentetsu Toyama 0853 >> Tateyama 0948
Tateyama 1000 >> Bijyodaira 1007
Bijyodaira 1020 >> Murodo 1110

Overnight stay: Hotel Tateyama

Tips for Day 1
– I stayed two nights in Murodo. For most of the people traveling Tateyama Alpine Route, Murodo is a place to stay for a few hours max. This time, I had clear skies from the evening of the second day till the morning of the last day, so it made sense to stay two nights. Murodo is full of tourists in the daytime, but it is a quiet place in the mornings and evenings. I have a feeling that one night would have been enough if only the weather had been better though.

Day 3

– Tateyama Alpine Route

Murodo 0800 >> Midagahara 0815
– Trekking at Midagahara
Midagahara 1055 >> Bijyodaira 1130
Bijyodaira 1140 >> Tateyama 1147
Tateyama 1200 >> Dentetsu Toyama 1304

Dinner: Sushi Ei Hanayagi

Toyama 1940 (Shinkansen Kagayaki 516) >> Omiya 2131
Omiya >> Yokohama

Tips for Day 3
– Sushi Ei Hanayagi is my favorite restaurant in Toyama. My favorite sake “Kachiuma” was on the menu. I drank 4 cups. Thanks to this, the Shinkansen train back to Omiya took only a few minutes from Toyama.
– I bought some “pressed sushi” at Junpu-ya in Toyama Station. I could take it home at room temperature.