Memories of Shiretoko

The story goes back to the day I left for my summer vacation. I worked at home on that day, and my mother stopped my home during the daytime. She said she wanted to go to Hokkaido in the fall. I then recalled that the last time I visited Shiretoko in Eastern Hokkaido in the fall, the weather was not good and it was a little early for the autumn leaves. That time was in late September, so it might be good to try a little later.

While heading to Tokyo Haneda Airport after work, I checked schedule and found that all fit in mid-October. Since I was going to visit Shiretoko, I decided to go from Friday to Sunday and added a visit to a sushi place in Oumu Town as well. Using Wi-Fi in the All Nippon Airways (ANA) lounge at Haneda, I sinfully booked Japan Airlines (JAL) award ticket, and set off for Croatia.

While I spend days lazily after returning from the summer vacation, time to go to Hokkaido was approaching. I thought that accommodation fee in Shiretoko would probably be expensive the night before Sunday, so I decided to stay in Shiretoko on Friday and stay in Oumu Town on Saturday. However, to my surprise, the Hotel Hinodemisaki in Oumu Town was fully booked on Saturday night. I secured the last remaining room at the hotel on Friday night and decided to stay in Shiretoko on Saturday night. This would allow to visit Shiretoko Lakes on Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning.

When I arrived at Memanbetsu Airport on Friday morning, the weather was clear. This itself was wonderful, but the problem was poor weather forecasted for Saturday and Sunday. The bad weather during the last visit to Shiretoko was one of reasons to choose the destination in Hokkaido. If the forecast was correct, I would encounter bad weather in Shiretoko again.

I had a vague recollection that it was not too far from Memanbetsu Airport to Shiretoko. I also recalled that it was not too far from Memanbetsu Airport to Oumu Town either. If so, it would be a good idea to go to Shiretoko on that day while clear skies expected.

I rented a car at the airport and arrived at Shiretoko before noon. It was not crowded probably because it was on a weekday, and I went to the pathway. The autumn leaves stood out in the blue sky, and the blue sky and the autumn leaves were reflected on the surface of Shiretoko Lakes. It was beautiful.

When I finished taking photos and looked at the watch, it was just before 3:00 p.m. It was about time to head for Oumu Town.

I then realized that I had underestimated Hokkaido geography. When I entered the Hotel Hinodemisaki into car navigation system, it estimated time of arrival at 7:30 p.m. When I repeated the phrase “not too far” twice in Hokkaido, it would be quite far, or rather too far away. I had made a 7:00 p.m. reservation at the sushi restaurant in Oumu Town. Anyhow, I got in the car and started driving.

Since there is no such boorish thing as highway along the Okhotsk coast, I followed cars with highway-like speeds of locals and caught in slow-moving traffic in the towns. I arrived at the hotel by 7:00 p.m. despite unsteady speeds. I left my luggage in the room and made it to the sushi restaurant before 7:20 p.m.

From this point on, I hardly remember anything. I disliked driving, so I felt a great sense of relief by the safety arrival. On top of that, there were delicious sushi served. Without a second to think about, I ended up drinking like fish.

When I came to realize, it was 4:00 a.m. and I had been asleep in bed. The hot spring in Oumu have a high salt content probably due to its proximity to the sea, and they are quite warming. I thought it would be a bad idea to leave without taking a bath after having come all the way there. Since it was too early in the morning, I thought there would be no one in the bath. It should be nicely quiet. I still felt a buzz from last night drinking.

I went into the bathhouse without thinking anything at all. A voice called out from the darkness, “good morning”. It seemed that there was a night shift employee taking the bath in his break time.

I calmly responded “good morning” but I could not help myself blushed.

End of the Year

Once a year during New Year holidays, I write a blog that has nothing to do with travel. I am trying to gain writing skills which do not rely on travel, but a good sense of writing is not something I can win in the end-of-year lottery, so I have not come to the fruition. In the end, it will be difficult to spread my wing away from being a travel blogger next year.

At the beginning of this year, I wrote “there is no night that never finds a day” in a quote from Japanese translation of Shakespeare’s “the night is long that never finds the day”. I had been feeling unwell for about a month since I caught a cold in early December of last year. At the time, it was diagnosed as an ordinary cold. However, some of my friends in medical field said that it might have been influenza and the diagnostic kit just didn’t react due to the vaccine I had taken.

This year was, in fact, really bad. Excessive temperature changes, hay fever, low atmospheric pressure, and various other factors have brought me to somewhere nothing resembling a dawn in sight.

Numbers speak for themselves, the number of paid leave in this year reached a record high of 18 days. Since I have been working the same company for a long time, I started with 40 days of paid leave, including 20 days carried over from last year. Yet, 18 days are probably at higher-end among Japanese workers.

The first half of the year was particularly bad. By the end of June, I had taken a total of 12 days off. This was the same number of days as whole last year including the days of sick leave owing the cold or the flu whichever it was. I traveled from time to time in the first half of this year, but not every month.

I worked to re-establish my life. During the summer months, the situation was relatively easy, but then worsened again as winter set in. The result was the aforementioned numbers.

The root cause of all seems to be insomnia. Insomnia weakens the autonomic nervous system, and it leads to further insomnia, a vicious cycle. Until the last summer, I was able to fall asleep with Chinese herbal medicine, but the Chinese herbal medicine had become completely ineffective, and I routinely went to bed at around 3:00 am. Even though I live close to my work, I still have to wake up at 7:30 am.

I considered substituting the Chinese herbal medicine by alcohol consumption, although the quality of my sleep would be suffered. I had to drink quite a lot to fall asleep, and when I emptied a bottle of whiskey within the three continuous nights on weekdays, I came to seriously consider the risk of liver dysfunction and gout. I concluded that western medication was better than alcohol, and resumed taking sleep aids for the first time in several years.

At first, the medication was so effective that affected my waking time. On the first day of work in this year, I woke up just before noon. Even I consider myself as a third-class businessman, my face turned ghostly white.

I somewhat managed to adjust the dosage of medication, but the insomnia gradually worsened and the medication became less effective. It did not work unless I feel some drowsiness, and as a result, I began to fall asleep after 2:00 am. From that point on, it became even later, beyond 3:00 am. By the time of the summer solstice, I slept after watching the sunrise. It was bad indeed.

After that, thanks to a change in medication, I was able to fall asleep around 3:00 am during the summer and fall months. However, the condition worsened again as winter approached. It seemed that I was susceptible to temperature changes. In fact, it is definitely worse than at the beginning of the year. It is a long time to continue this kind of life for more than a year.

It is tempting to think that “there is no day that never finds a night,” but I wish to make a break before that happens.

After I stopped receiving New Year’s gift money, I have not been interested to celebrate New Year. Still, the year will end soon. On the 30th, drunken on the last business at a yakitori restaurant and a bar in Ginza, Tokyo; and spent New Year’s Eve quietly at a Chinese restaurant and a bar in Yokohama. This has been a regular pattern for the past few years. Time flies as I repeat the same thing over and over again.

I do not think I will get a New Year’s gift money at this age, but I will go out for drinks to bring this year to close. Then I will prepare for my next trip.

After all, I only can be a travel blogger again next year.

COLO’s Traveler’s Guide: Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Times listed are the timetables at the time of visit.

Day 0

Tokyo Haneda 2140 (All Nippon Airways ANA203) – Frankfurt 0520+

Day 1

Frankfurt 1025 (Croatia Airlines OU419) – Dubrovnik 1210

Overnight stay: Ragusa City Walls Apartments

Tips for Day 1
– This was my second time in Dubrovnik, but hotel prices were skyrocketing, so I decided to stay at a rental apartment near the Old Town. It was quite convenient location near airport bus stop. There seemed to be management companies specializing such rental apartments, and the rooms were well maintained.
– The restaurant for dinner that night was a Michelin-listed place, which I dare not mention. Modern Croatian cuisine has not been well with me since my first visit. To me, it looks fancy and expensive, but it lacks subtlety.

Day 2

Full-day tour of Kravica Waterfalls, Mostar, and Pochiteli

Lunch: Restoran Kaldrma

Dinner: Konoba Dubrava

Tips for Day 2
– I had dinner was at a traditional Croatian restaurant. It was a kind of steamed dish in an iron pot. It was simple yet exquisitely seasoned. Unlike the restaurant the day before, I was able to enjoy local food, wine and liquor. The only drawback was that I had to take a cab from the old town, but this was not a big problem in Dubrovnik because Uber was available.

Day 3

– Sunny day in Dubrovnik

Lunch: Sandvich Bar

Dubrovnik 1730 (bus) – Kotor 1950 (actually arrived around 2100)

Dinner: Atrium Restaurant

Overnight stay: Apartments Casa del Sol Jovana

Tips for Day 3
– The weather forecast turned out to be wrong and it was sunny from the morning. I ended up visiting Walls of Dubrovnik for three times in this trip. Twice was just stupid but three times were indeed fool…
– I had a lunch was at a sandwich shop in front of the Hilton Hotel. Their burger was excellent, and I had gone there every day during my first visit to Dubrovnik. I was worried because it was a small eatery in a tourist town, but I was glad to see that the shop was still there after the COVID-19.
– I took the bus to Kotor, Montenegro. It is safe to book tickets online, and luggage storage is extra fee.
– The Old Town of Kotor is a small town with a few hotels, but there are many rental apartments. The first place I booked asked me to pay in advance via money transfer right after booking, so I decided to cancel the reservation. Although pre-payment itself was not a problem to me, I felt that direct remittance was too risky. I looked for a place where I could pay via hotel reservation website.

Day 4

– Kotor

Dinner: Konoba Scala Santa

Tips for Day 4
– Kotor is a small town, but it is crowded because of the cruise ships. If possible, it is better to stay overnight and take advantage of the early morning and evening hours when the town is quiet.
– If you stay at a private accommodation in Kotor, you will need to bring your passport and pay the accommodation tax within 48 hours of your arrival.

Day 5

– Kotor

Dinner: La Catedral Pasta Bar

Tips for Day 5
– The mountain road was too steep.

Day 6

Kotor 0300 (airport private shuttle) – Podgorica Airport 0430

Podgorica 0700 (Austrian Airlines OS730) – Vienna 0820
Vienna 1125 (All Nippon Airways ANA206) – Haneda 0655+

Tips for Day 6
– Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro, was said to be the least interesting capital city in Europe. I thought it would be a good idea to have an extra day in Kotor. A cab from Kotor would cost about 100 euros. It was a tough to get up at 2:30 a.m., but I thought a reasonable option considering time and hotel fees.
– The driver of airport shuttle became friendly after he found I had visited Montenegro twice, and asked for some Japanese yen bills. 10 euros was exchanged for a new 1,000 yen bill of Tomisaburo Kitasato and an old 1,000 yen bill of Soseki Natsume. I was too cheap that I didn’t tip the whole amount…
– I started to drink beer at Vienna airport from 8:00 am, drunken at 10:30 am, thanks to a nice guy at beer pub near ANA boarding gate who gave me a brief introduction of Austrian beer.