Memories of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Just after arriving Croatia, I encountered a thunderstorm on Walls of Dubrovnik and paid the entrance fee twice just within a few hours in the afternoon. However, the tragedy on the first day was not only the entrance fee, which costed me over 11,000 yen.

Although I avoided the peak season in August, Dubrovnik was crowded. I had difficulties making restaurant reservations on weekend nights, so I had to make a reservation at a Michelin-listed restaurant on the day of arrival, which was a weekday. While I elegantly enjoyed at the most fashionable and expensive restaurant of the entire trip, I received text message on WhatsApp.

It said that due to last-minute cancellation of other guests, the one-day tour to Bosnia and Herzegovina on the following day would be cancelled. It was already after 21:00.

I had visited Bosnia and Herzegovina on an one-day tour from Dubrovnik during my last visit to this region, the mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina were so impressive that I was looking forward to revisiting them with recently purchased wide-angle lens. There were two mosques I wished to visit. One of them was in Mostar, a famous tourist town, and could be reached by ordinary buses. However, the other one was located where I could not imagine how I can visit.

I was already feeling gloomy as I paid the entrance fee for Walls of Dubrovnik twice before the dinner, but I felt even gloomier when I heard this. Besides, I ordered the tasting menu and wine pairings, which caused the dinner was rather hectic. I was explained everything on food and wine, but I was distracted. While having the dinner, I tried to find buses but I could not find one. However, I could not give up visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina after coming to Dubrovnik, the border was just ahead.

In the end, at around 21:30, I searched for a tour and found a web site that still accepting reservations for the next day. I was skeptical but I completed the reservation. I immediately received a WhatsApp message. It was the same tour company that had cancelled my initial reservation… Good Grief!

The itinerary of the tour was not much different from the cancelled one, but instead of visiting to a Christian pilgrimage site called Medjugorje, I would be going to see waterfalls. Also, the tour itinerary has shorter stay in Mostar, but I thought it was an unavoidable compromise.

I was picked-up early in the morning at 6:30. Apparently, the waterfalls were more popular than the pilgrimage site for tourists, the tour bus was nearly full. After leaving Croatia, we first visited to Kravica Waterfall. I did not expect much, but it was quite spectacular. The weather was still bad from yesterday, but this might be a positive effect that there were no swimmers. There were buoys set up to segregate the swimming area, which eventually showed up in the pictures, but I could have Adobe Lightroom’s AI to erase them later.

After spending an hour at the waterfall, the tour headed to a village called Pocitelj. The mosque here was wonderful and I wanted to revisit.

Despite it was planned to stay there only for 20 minutes, the bus arrived just before the worship time around noon. When I visit a mosque, I always like to see it from the same perspective as the worshippers. So if possible, I try to sit on the floor and look up inside the mosque. While I sat down on the floor after I took pictures, the imam started the service. I was not asked to leave, I remained to sit in the corner for a while. It was quite secular, with an old man smiling at me and a child walking around. Although it was a short time, it was interesting visit.

Last town of the tour was Mostar. As is common in this kind of tour, guests were taken to a restaurant. I had no high expectations, but a traditional local dish like tomato risotto was delicious. The beef soup I separately ordered was gold-color and also tasted good. It was about a tenth of the price of last night’s fancy restaurant, but twice as tasty.

I finished the meal quickly and went to an old mosque. I remembered the last time I was sitting in this mosque, I talked with the imam who happened to be there, and he said he was grateful to the respects I paid among other tourists roundly talked each other.

The visit at this time was during a heavy shower. The mosque was completely deserted despite this was one of the country’s most popular tourist places. Including the time for taking pictures, I was able to quietly observe the mosque for about 30 minutes. Moreover, I was able to climb the minaret, a spire attached to the mosque, for an extra fee. It is probably rare for a mosque to show this much to non-Moslems.

When I heard of tour cancellation the night before, I had a really sinking feeling. In the end, I was able to recover and fully enjoy the short visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina.

It is important not to give up on anything. I usually do not reach such conclusion. Nevertheless, I can have such a positive attitude while traveling.

Memories of Goshougake (Originally posted on 2023-Apr-9)

Last year, I went to Sukayu Onsen during the New Year holidays, which was an unusual case for me. Basically, I believe it is better to stay at home during crowded New Year’s holidays and go on a trip after the second week of January.

When I visited Goshougake Onsen in Akita Prefecture two years ago, I learned that Hachimantai Visitor Center was offering snow trekking tours. There is a mud volcano surrounding Goshougake Onsen, which can be viewed from the trails during the summer months. It would be wonderful to see it in winter, as the scenery can be quite fascinating. Since I tend to act quick on my trip plans, I had thought to go back one year later in winter, but I had to give it up due to the construction work at Goshougake Onsen.

I maintained my forward-looking attitude for another year and started to make inquiries and reservations last October. I heard that there were a 2-hour trekking tour for beginners and a 3-hour trekking tour to fully enjoy the spectacular view. I have chosen the 3-hour course even though I had never worn snowshoes. I was able to rent everything from snowshoes to clothing, so it seemed to be a fairly easy way to have fun.

I had decided and booked on dates in mid-January, more than 3 months prior to the visit. I might have been too forward-looking, because I had been waiting for the visit almost two years. A phrase “too much of good thing can be bad” came to mind. I wondered if I would be alright.

On the way there, I flew from Tokyo Haneda to Odate-Noshiro Airport and travelled further from Odate to Goshougake Onsen. On the way back, I took the Akita Nairiku Railway from Takanosu, where was near Odate, to Kakunodate and returned to Tokyo on the Akita Shinkansen.

When main purpose of the trip is photography, difficulties are always the weather. Normally, I would like to spend longer time in one site, rather than visiting multiple sites in one trip. This way, I can have several opportunities to take photographs, higher chance to have nice weather.

Unfortunately, when I use the transportation service of Goshougake Onsen, I am not able to participate trekking on the day of arrival nor departure. I would have to stay two nights and join the trekking only once on the middle day.

I could not control the weather. Despite I could not prepare for the worst, I only hoped for the best. This methodology has never worked in my life.

It turned out, the afternoon of the day before the trekking was fine, and the morning of the day after the trekking was fine. Yet, it snowed on the day of the trekking, which was the most important day of three. I should be satisfied with the winter scenery even if cloudy, but snowflakes can be annoying because they would show up in the photos.

On the day of trekking tour, I was guided by two locals supposedly as a safety measure. I am a middle-aged man with an unusually stiff body, so I was relieved and grateful. We did some warm-up exercises and headed out. The fresh snow felt good.

It was my first time for snowshoe trekking, but the crampons worked well and it was easy to get used to. Climbing hills and sliding on the slopes, they were extremely fun. The view was even more spectacular than I imagined. It was wonderful to walk on a different route than the trails in summer.

As for the photos, the visibility was poor due to the snow. It is the same in life, being positive forward-looking attitude does not always bring positive results.

I am persistent to travel, so I will keep forward-looking attitude and try again next year.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Goshougake Onsen

The times and other information are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0855 (All Nippon Airways ANA719) >> Odate-Noshiro 1005
Odate Noshiro Airport (airport bus) 1020 >> Nagakura-cho 1124

Lunch: Akita Hinaiya

Odate Station 1255 (Express Bus Michinoku) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1353
Kazuno Hanawa 1435 (shuttle bus) >> Goshougake Onsen 1520

Overnight stay: Goshougake Onsen

Tips for Day 1
– Lunch at Akita Hinaiya, with local Hinai chicken in oyako-don (chicken and egg bowl).
– Due to the heavy rainfall last year, the JR Hanawa Line was closed from Odate to Kazuno Hanawa. I took an express bus for this section.

Day 3

Goshougake Onsen 0930 (shuttle bus) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1020
Kazuno Hanawa 1032 (local bus) >> Odate Station 1203

Akita Inu no Sato

Lunch: Hanazen

Odate 1357 (Tsugaru 4) >> Takanosu 1414
Takanosu 1438 (Akita Nairiku Railway Express Train) >> Kakunodate 1635

Kakunodate Samurai District at night

Kakunodate 1901 (Komachi 46) >> Omiya 2139
Omuya >> Yokohama

Tips for Day 3
– On the way back from Kazuno Hanawa to Odate, I took a local bus. It was a long but interesting ride through the villages.
– I love the lunchbox called “Torimeshi (Chicken Rice)” sold at Odate Station (and other stations in Tohoku area), and the lunchbox shop has a restaurant in front of Odate Station. Usually the lunchbox is sold in normal temperature, but I was impressed by the freshly made warm chicken rice.
– In order to have river views, I wanted to make sure to have a seat on the right side of Akita Nairiku Line train from Takanosu, so I took JR limited express from Odate to Takanosu. I had a cup (cups, actually) of sake while looking at the snowy scenery of Ani River. It’s hard to resist.

Memories of Drift Ice (Originally posted on 2023-Jun-16)

Last year, I visited to Monbetsu and Abashiri to see drift ice because I thought there were fewer travelers due to COVID-19 outbreak. In fact, hotels and airline tickets could be changed at last minute. After a quick change of plans just few days before departure, I got into the clear skies and I was able to enjoy the drift ice.

It is a human nature to wonder if there are any birds of this year in last year’s nests. I wanted to go back to see the drift ice again. Due to my own arrangement mistake, I had to reschedule first half of the trip from Kushiro to Kawayu Onsen. However, as expected, I was not able to change my schedule for Abashiri and Monbetsu during the peak season of this year. I had a pretty much fixed schedule, and all I could do was to hope that the weather would be cooperative.

Unfortunately, the weather forecast was cloudy during my stay. If heavy snow was expected, I would have considered returning to Tokyo early, but the forecast was not that bad. I had to leave the weather to the gods of Hokkaido.

From Kawayu Onsen, I took a tourist bus to Abashiri. It was sunny early in the morning, but as I headed toward Abashiri, it gradually became cloudy. I wondered if there is no birds of this year in last year’s nests after all.

With a reservation made in advance, I boarded an icebreaker boat in Abashiri despite the poor weather. Although the scenery was magnificent, it was a bit of lacking from a photographic point of view.

From Abashiri, I continued the bus to Monbetsu. The windows of the bus on winter roads were dirty and the scenery outside was dark and somber. I fell into a sleep on its long way.

When I woke up just before Monbetsu, the light outside the window was slightly brighter. It was hard to believe at first glance, I wondered if the weather was clearing up. Was the weather forecast wrong?

When I got off the bus at Monbetsu Port, it was perfectly clear. I took an evening icebreaker boat for the sunset cruise. Last year, it was partly cloudy on the sunset cruise, so I might say that this alone was worth the trip to Monbetsu again. It was wonderful.

In the evening, I enjoyed at a local sushi restaurant.

The forecast for the next morning was cloudy again. Since weather forecast is just a forecast, it can be wrong. However, it is unlikely to be wrong for two days in a row.

By the way, the room on that day was exactly the same room in the same hotel as last year. If such a miracle could happen, I wonder if there could be some birds of this year in last year’s nests.

I decided not to have excessive expectations and went to bed. Still, it is human nature to be anxious, I had a nightmare that it was cloudy when I woke up.

When my alarm went off a little after 4:00 a.m., the sky was clear in reality. It was unusually cold, but my heart was warm. I headed for the sunrise cruise.

Thanks to the gods of Hokkaido, there were indeed many birds of this year in last year’s nests.