Summer in Japan / Western Shikoku | Detoxifying Effect of Dogo Onsen

Summer in Japan is long and hot. When I was a child, a daily high temperature exceeding 30C (approx 85F) would make the news; nowadays, it is hardly worth reporting unless the temperature surpasses that of human body.

Despite the sweltering heat, escaping the heat is not the goal of my summer vacation. Also, I surely do not go to the beach to enjoy the summer. My priority is avoiding summer vacation crowds, which has led me to take my own summer vacation in September. So, I thought to endure the intense heat in July and August and planned a trip to Turkey in September; but by the end of July, the heat had left me feeling fed up with life.

Human psychology is such that one becomes easily swayed in moments like these. Around that time, someone happened to ask me about a good domestic travel destination and I suggested western Shikoku, a route from Matsuyama to Kochi via Uwajima. A few days later, another person checked with me to see if I could really endure the heat until September without taking a trip.

Indeed, I am a kind of middle-aged guy who lacks patience; and once I am set on something, there is nothing to stop me. Since I had just laid out a good travel plan and the idea had already taken root, why not just go for it.

I avoided absolute peak week in August, but when I looked for flight tickets for the following week, I miraculously managed to book frequent flyer award tickets with ideal schedule for a weekend getaway – the first All Nippon Airways (ANA) flight from Tokyo Haneda to Matsuyama on Saturday and the last Japan Airlines (JAL) flight from Kochi to Tokyo Haneda on Sunday. It might be a sign that gods of Shikoku telling me to come.

There is a saying that one should leave things to fate; and when it comes to the weather, this is truly the only option unless there are enough travel days. As gods of Shikoku telling me to come, the forecast called for clear, sunny skies on both Saturday and Sunday. It looked like I would be able to enjoy two full days.

I had visited Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama before, but I had always avoided the main bathhouse (Honkan). I knew it would be crowded, and waiting in a long line to get in was unappealing at all. However, it seemed the system has been changed; I can now register my phone number and receive a notification when it is my turn. While waiting, I am free to enjoy local mandarin orange juice or tarts (traditional Matsuyama pastry). That is a system even someone like me can handle.

Upon arriving at Matsuyama Airport, I hopped on a bus to Dogo. I headed straight to the Honkan, where, to my surprise, was not crowded. I decided to put off having the mandarin orange juice and the tarts for later and I went for a soak in the hot spring at first.

Perhaps because I had too much drinking the night before besides I happened to be wearing a purple shirt, when I left the Honkan, my shirt was a bad sweat-stained mess. I bought a towel on impulse, but given the high temperature, it was practically useless. With this much of sweating, I supposed Dogo Onsen had detoxifying effect.

Between Matsuyama and Uwajima, there are several towns that have preserved their old-fashioned charm, such as Uchiko, Iyo-Ozu, and Unomachi. I had visited them before, but I decided to revisit Uchiko, which had left the strongest impression. Uchiko was deserted likely due to the sweltering heat. My sweating did not let up; the detoxifying effect was still in full force.

By the evening, I arrived in Uwajima. After watching the sunset at the port, I headed to the “Hozumitei,” the highlight of this trip. It is a place known not only for famous sea bream rice (tai-meshi) but also for a variety of local traditional dishes. One thing led to another, and I ended up quite tipsy. The detoxifying effect was suspended.

On the next day, I took the sightseeing trains – a trolley (open-air carriage) and an express sightseeing train – to Kochi Station. The views of the Shimanto River and the Pacific Ocean under the clear, sunny sky were stunning. Kochi is a prefecture famous for its heavy drinking culture; being the type of person who does as the locals do, I resumed drinking as soon as onboard lunch service started on the express sightseeing train. After arriving at Kochi Station, I headed to Kochi Airport a bit too early and continued drinking at a Tosa (old name of Kochi) cuisine restaurant in the airport. The flight from Kochi to Tokyo felt like lasted only three minutes.

Whatever the detoxifying effect I had managed to achieve in Ehime Prefecture was completely undone in Kochi Prefecture on the following day. Along with beautiful towns and scenery, it seems western Shikoku truly has everything.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Ehime & Kochi

The times listed are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 07:15 (ANA 583) > Matsuyama 08:40
Matsuyama Airport 09:00 (Bus) > Dogo Onsen 09:40

・Dogo Onsen Honkan (Main Bathhouse)

Dogo Onsen 11:44 (Tram) > JR Matsuyama Station 12:08
Matsuyama 12:30 (Uwakai 13) > Uchiko 12:57

・Uchiko

Uchiko 15:58 (Uwakai 19) > Uwajima 17:03

Accommodation: JR Hotel Clement Uwajima

Dinner: Hozumitei

Day 2

Uwajima 09:34 (JR Yodo Line / Shiman Torokko 2) > Kubokawa 12:11
Kubokawa 13:10 (Yoake Monogatari) > Kochi 16:09
Kochi Station 16:30 (Bus) > Kochi Airport 17:00
Kochi 18:55 (JAL 498) > Tokyo Haneda 20:25

Day 2 Tips
・I hoped to visit the “Habotan” near Harimaya Bridge in downtown Kochi, but with only about an hour to spare, I had to give up on that plan. There is a branch of “Tosa-cuisine Tsukasa” at the airport, their main branch is famous in the city.